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South Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Here Now T 
Center Thumb T 
Da Black and Gold T 
Expanding Man T 
Free Mexican Air Force T 
Gardner's Delight , The T 
Gold Wall T 
Great Escape, The T 
Heart of Gold T 
Inner Vision T 
Left Thumb T 
P-38 T 
Right Thumb T 
Taivallista T 

Heart of Gold 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T. Gregory, S. Ohkawa, August 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: June-September
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: mountainsense on Oct 21, 2009

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Named after the stolen spaceship in Douglas Adams' The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, Heart of Gold shares the first 20 feet of the Gold Wall (L. Ellison, C. Noble, 1980), then ascends an obvious, thin finger crack--avoiding the tiered, leftward traverse of the original route. The finger crack begins just below an overlap and continues straight up the wall to reach a single bolt belay above a small stance. From the stance, follow the widening crack until it is possible to traverse left to a ledge below the start of the roofs on the Gold Wall.


Heart of Gold starts in a shallow, left-facing corner--the same start as the Gold Wall. The route can be linked to either the Gold Wall or to Fool's Gold (C. Harmston, K. Harvey, 19??); follow the standard descent off of the South Summit Wall, down the Collin's Highway.


Be sure to bring a selection of small wires and cams from tips to hands--doubles are not necessary, but may be useful. There is a single bolt at the belay; it can be backed up with finger-sized gear.

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