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Heart of Gold 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gordon Briody, Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar 1998
Page Views: 3,194
Submitted By: ScottH on Jun 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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On the "bubbly slab" (pitch 3) on Heart ...

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Heart of Gold is a fine multi-pitch journey up the bulk of Duty Dome. Excellent face climbing and thoughtfully placed bolts make for a pleasantly hard climb up beautiful stone.

P1. Begin at the left side of a long roof, following bolts up and then right to a crystal-laden slab and the anchor.

P2. Traverse directly right from the belay, following an obvious hand crack under a roof and around the corner. Trend up and right to the anchor.

P3. The meat. A delicate section off the belay leads to 30m of friction face climbing. The burn you will develop in your calves is worth it.

P4. Easier face climbing leads to a belay near the top of the dome.


To descend, scramble off the right side of the dome, and walk down the gully between Duty Dome and Warrior Wall. Rappel slings are in place on most of the anchors, but rappelling the route after the second pitch would certainly require some improvisation.


Mostly bolt protected, with a few pieces up to 1". A pink tricam fits nicely in a runout on the first pitch. One or two pieces will protect the P2 traverse for the second, and a small microcam or alien can be placed for the timid low on P3.

Photos of Heart of Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Heart of Gold pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Heart of Gold pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the First Pitch
BETA PHOTO: Top of the First Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Textured face climbing!
Textured face climbing!

Comments on Heart of Gold Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I have heard how people get lost on the 2nd pitch traverse so I will add: go right till you are traversing under and around a roof till you have to mantle up past a small tree, pass 2 button head RAWL bolts on face going right and uphill till you see the 2 hangers of the belay.
If when you top out and are not climbing one of the great routes at the Warrior wall you can rap down to the top of Straight Street anchor and make 2 single rope raps to Off Duty area.
By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
Mar 31, 2015

good route. worth doing with a short approach and mellow descent. solid slab pitches at the grade that have just enough pro to not be run out but still engaging.
By Suzanne Wilson 1
From: Placentia, California
May 8, 2015

Great route. Correction on pitch 1...guidebook shows 9 bolts, but there were only 7 bolts. Wish we had known that. Went back down, re-checked guidebook and took some small TCUs to bridge the gap between 5 and 6th bolt....easy climbing but would be a bit runout w/o gear. All in all, we had a great time.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agree with previous comments. Great bolting job on P3 which is so much fun. Just spaced out enough to keep you on your toes but not so much as to make it scary.

P2: just go directly right on the big horizontal crack until you see a bolt around the corner. Don't go up and right.
By Jay Smith
Jun 26, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I felt pitch four was equally difficult as pitch three. The slab section felt steeper and more exposed. Fun route, but knock it out early in the day if it's going to be a hot one!

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