REI Community
Heart Boulder
Select Route:
A Single Blade 
Chris' Traverse 
Heart Crack 
Heart of Glass 
Heart, The 
Scoop, The 
Silent Rage 
Wishful Thinking 

Heart of Glass 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
Season: Cooler temperatures
Page Views: 4,542
Submitted By: tscupp on Apr 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A little taste of Fontainebleau


This problem is fantastic, I have a hard time not throwing the pad down and getting on it every time I see it. Be warned though, in the summer it feels nearly impossible.

Start with left hand on a sidepull rail and right hand on a sloper around the arete. Put your left foot on a very small/slippery hold and heel hook the arete with your right. Slap your way up the arete to the tough match and top out. Some people start with the right hand on a high pinch too, but I find it easier and more fun to start on the low sloper.

V8 from the sit starting on a low crimp and sloper.


You can see the backside of the arete from the road but it is basically on the side opposite of the road. It faces the swamp.


1 pad is fine, 2nd pad is nice if you come off up high.

Photos of Heart of Glass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: sam on heart of glass.
sam on heart of glass.
Rock Climbing Photo: Who's got the best hat ?
Who's got the best hat ?
Rock Climbing Photo: Miguel Almeida at the start
Miguel Almeida at the start
Rock Climbing Photo: The Heart of Glass arete.
BETA PHOTO: The Heart of Glass arete.

Comments on Heart of Glass Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Z
Apr 28, 2011

the foothold for the start has since broke...there's still a nub on either side of where the foot hold was but the one good part of the foot broke off.... it still goes....just a tad more balance now
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 22, 2012

FA standing start- Ed Sewall, late '80s, not sure of the sit FA
By Sean Kurnas
May 27, 2013
rating: V4 6B

v4? Sure why not... I think that the nubs Jay Z mentioned have crumbled/polished into even worse footholds since I was last here, but I could be wrong. In any case, I think there are better options for the starting foot.

As promised, a shout out to mystery Dave for the chalk, he led the day in assists.
By Joe M.
Feb 3, 2016

#4 on the beta topo

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About