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Diedre Sud T 
Heart of Darkness/New Morning T 
Right Wall, The T 

Heart of Darkness/New Morning 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Apr 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Looking back along the traverse

Description 

A classic link-up of 2 very good lines: intimidating, committing and serious for both leader and second. The first pitch (Heart of Darkness) is a traverse of the obvious breaks at about half height, while the second (New Morning) is a hand-fist crack to the top. E1 4c,5b in British.

From the ledges, climb up and left to the arete, from which you can peer round at the route. Continue up to the series of breaks: you want your hands in the top one for the most part. Now the route is obvious: traverse the breaks to the left, above a sea cave, into a corner and back out to belay just round the arete. The most comfortable belay ledge is a few feet above the breaks, but if you want to see your second, extending it and hanging on the arete is the best option.

The hands are all there, but sometimes you are left wanting for feet. The protection is good: plug a cam in just about anywhere (if you have enough!). Good rope management is necessary, and as the belayer can't see the leader, communication is difficult. A fall for either member of the party will have you swinging in free space, no option other than to prussic back up the rope.

The second pitch is a finely positioned climb straight up the strenuous jamming crack directly above the belay. Protection is plentiful, and the climbing is never desperate. Belay at a stake well back.

Location 

There isn't a convenient stake to abseil off above the start of the route so you'll have to fix your own anchor. As you walk out along the headland, there is a lower, grassy shelf on the right, about 50m from the end. Abseil about 5m before this, off nuts and slings.

Protection 

Plenty of medium-large cams (BD 0.75-4 range) can be supplemented with nuts and a couple of skinny slings for threads. No fixed gear, belay off a stake.


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