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The Split Boulder
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Anorexorcist 
Bones to Bits 
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Flakes of Life 
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Heart of Darkness 
Jaded 
Morgue, The 
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Stegasaurus 

Heart of Darkness 

Hueco: V12 Font: 8A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V12 Font: 8A+ [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Graham O. on Jun 25, 2016

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Description 

This is a broken traverse on chossy rock! The start holds are gone, as is one of the key holds. Currently it is back to project status.

Location 

On the Split Boulder to the immediate right of Bones to Bits.

Protection 

A few pads. Maybe a spotter if you continue up the crack.


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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jun 25, 2016

I believe this climb starts just to the right of Bones To Bits, then it traverses low to the right and finishes up the dirty crack above Stegasaurus, and Coin Toss (V9/10) is the same traverse but in the opposite direction (start by the crack above Stegasaurus, traverse left into Bones To Bits). I could be wrong though. If someone could shed some more light on these two climbs that would be awesome!

Either way, apparently a crux/needed hold has broken on Heart Of Darkness and the sit start also broke. It could possibly still go (probably be harder now, unless better beta was found) but I've heard it's not nearly as good as Confident Man or Halcyon. Coin Toss still goes at V9 but the sit/extension for it is also broken. Hopefully some inspired person could resend this line!

If someone is looking for another good challenge on this boulder, they should check out Three Amigos. I'm not completely sure where it starts, but it starts somewhere between Confident Man and Halcyon, and climbs some small holds up into the last couple moves of Halcyon. There's also an unnamed V10 that climbs the cool swooping prow to the left of Rio's Problem, it starts on the undercling.
By Graham O.
Jun 28, 2016

Jake-

I believe that you are right about Coin Toss but not HOD. I'm fairly confident that the dirty crack you mentioned is a sketchy v4 called "Flakes of Life", and that Coin Toss does traverse into Bones to Bits, but that Heart of Darkness goes straight up the face. I don't know anything about Los Amigos or that unarmed v10. I have heard locals call Coin Toss a pile of choss, earning the name "Choss Toss". Heart of Darkness deserves more attempts from those with that kind of skill, though. Coin Toss not so much.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jun 28, 2016

Flakes of Life is a traverse that starts as for Rio's Problem traverses right into a giant flake. It kinda traverses over the river. The dirty crack I'm talking goes right above stegasaurus. Cool to know that Heart Of Darkness actually goes right up the huge face, that's actually sick! I thought it went into the disgusting and terrifying crack above Stegasaurus. I was looking at the holds for Coin Toss and they look like they've reached a relatively solid state.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Jul 1, 2016

Sorry guys, there wasn't much right about this description so I tweaked it. It has been climbed many times since the FA, however it is mostly broken and unclimbed in a number of years. When compared to the other lines on the boulder it's not even worth it. The start holds that were shared with Coin Toss are gone and I ripped a key hold off a few years ago. It does not climb up the face - it was a rightward traverse to the arete next to Stegasaurus and then around the arete into the corner/crack to the top with the actual topout being optional.
By Graham O.
Aug 12, 2016

I saw chalk on that unnamed v10 today, went and checked it out... Looks rad!

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