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Orange Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Get a Haircut Doug T 
Hazmat T 
Heart of Darkness T 
Rico's Maildrop S 
Rock Jihad S 
Tatanka T 

Heart of Darkness 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: D B on May 20, 2013

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Two bolts protect the start. Forget about placing ...

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  • Description 

    The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors.

    Location 

    Far left end of Orange Wall, right of Tatanka and Rock Jihad. Very distinct 20 ft crack at the bottom

    Protection 

    2 bolts, gear, Metolius rap anchors


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    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    May 20, 2013

    The top two thirds consists of climbing on a bunch of really cool microwave oven sized plates. A medium sized sampling of cams up to #1 Camalot provide pro in mostly horizontal seams between plates. A tad heady but really fun after the crux.