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Heart of Darkness S 
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Heart of Darkness 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Peter Beal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dan Levison on the crux of HOD; photo by Mr. Greg ...

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  • Description 

    Climb the steep roof/overhang just left of the mineshaft. Lots of bolts at the start due to shaky rock and a big ledge. The rock cleans up quickly for the lip crux. Very bouldery.

    Protection 

    7 bolts.


    Comments on Heart of Darkness Add Comment
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    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 17, 2001

    Just a thank you to whoever stole the carabiners I left on the anchor. 15 year old microlights, hmm...I hope they never get put to the test.
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 13, 2004

    I am curious if anyone has beta for the fifth clip, which is the clip right above the roof and at the end of the crux.I can't find holds good enough to let go and clip with the right hand. The only thing I can think of is to skip the clip, but if you blow it high on the lip you risk hitting the ledge below. Any thoughts would be appreciated.Thanks in advance!

    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 28, 2005
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    I too was unable to clip the 5th bolt, and took the big whip (from high on the lip) several times before finally redpointing the route. The fall is safe, although you do come somewaht close to hitting the ledge. Great route, solid V8/V9 crux. Kudos to Pete Beal.
    By Kaelen Willaims
    Jun 12, 2008

    The line to the right of HOD looks cool, wish it were bolted....
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jun 12, 2008

    I looked at that line. There might be an issue with rock quality.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Aug 4, 2008

    I have heard that the large spike at the start has detached and this route may be much harder now.

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