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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Headwall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ron Gilligan & George Bracksieck, July 26, 1974?
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Nov 5, 2015

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  • Description 

    Climb the headwall above the first pitch of West Face and left of the second (top-out) pitch of West Face. On July 26, 1974, Ron Gilligan led this headwall, using clean aid. I followed most of it free, after leading the 5.9 approach pitch. This was before the "FA" stated in guidebooks. Perhaps the later team did the FFA.

    Location 

    Begin atop the first pitch of West Face.

    Protection 

    I don't know what a modern free ascent may find for pro. I rated it C4 in my 1974 journal. I recall that Ron used some barely placed wires for aid. If he weren't tall, it would have been more desperate. He did have to make free moves to connect aid placements. We didn't bring or use pitons, nor did we find any on the route.


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