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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 908
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on May 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Headwall crux. Thin edging and sequential. photo...

Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.



This is the last bolted line on the far right side of Big Rock, about 10’ right of False Headwall. Although not a true sport climb, the crux is well-protected and after that it’s bolted well enough. The climb gets its name from the vertical start, involving some delicate moves on thin holds to reach the first bolt. The bolt protects a similar sequence of moves. Above this, the route goes very easy on low angle slab with plenty of flakes for the hands and feet. Due to the nature of this climb, one star out of four. But it is well worth doing for the dicey opening moves. Rappel to descend.


3 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos of Headwall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Headwall, about 20' right of The Hard Trough.
BETA PHOTO: Headwall, about 20' right of The Hard Trough.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crux is a nice sequential, well protected, edging problem, sort of a shorter, less steep version of "Edgard Sanction." This is NOT the last route on the right side of the Main Slab. There is a 4 bolt 5.8 route 50 feet right of The Headwall, put up in 1995 by Mike Hearn. It follows a polished crack/seam with a small overlap at the bottom.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The Headwall is 10' right of "Kwanku Dai" (not False Headwall) and 20' right of the "Hard Trough".
By Malcolm M
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Fun little start, but 5.9 is inaccurate (could be some holds broke off). I don't know many 5.9 climbers who can send a micro-crimp crux, which is what the first 12 feet of this climb is. Crux grade is likely V3, *possibly* V2 and is unprotected until you're through the crux and can clip the first bolt (not well protected as stated above). A nasty fall into thorn bushes and uneven ground will result from a failed start here.

It's possible the route has changed since FA, since the crimpy flakes at the start could probably break off pretty easily. But best case this start is 10b now, possibly harder. Past the crux, climbing is maybe 5.6 or 5.7 to the top.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Apr 7, 2012

Malcom M is spot on with description. +1
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Crux feels much harder than 5.9 with Mythos. Might be easier with some good edging shoes. The climbing starts getting exponentially easier after the first bolt.

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