Headwall Crack Left
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Sarah nearing the top, at the wide crack.
Super fun jamming and stemming in the corner left of the bolted climb No Exit
and just right of Paul's Boutique
. The crack eats up pro so this is a good lead for those just learning to place pro.
In this order: #8 BD nut, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot and a 3 and/or 4 for the finish to bolted anchor. :-)
By Mark Mathis
Apr 12, 2007
Best route at this grade at the Overlook and often "Overlooked" (please forgive me) by beginners. Also an enjoyable trad warmup.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I agree, this is definitely one of the easiest cracks at Overlook and a nice lead for a beginning trad leader. It tends to be a bit dirty after rainstorms, but the dust clears out pretty quick. Takes good pro and allows for those less comfortable climbing solely in a crack to stem their way all the way up. Widens a bit near the top, but there are good holds to the left of the chains that make clipping easy.