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Castle Rock - Black Tower Buttress
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Headwall Center T 
Headwall Left TR 
Headwall Right T 
Lower Black Tower T 

Headwall Center 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown, FL: Brad Singer
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2007

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Headwall Center

Description 

From anchors atop the buttress climb right a few feet to a bolt and then head straight up into a sweet, thin crack which leads to anchors at the top of the face. You may be able to link the approach pitch and this route into one longer pitch, but rope drag may be an issue; if considering this Crossbow is probably the better choice. Return to the ground in two short raps.

Location 

This route starts from the ledge atop the Black Tower Buttress and, as the name indicates, climbs the center of the headwall above. Approach via Crossbow on the left side of the buttress or Black Tower Crack which is on the right side of the butress facing east.

Protection 

bolt, gear to 1.5", 2 bolt anchor/rap


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Rock Climbing Photo: Headwall center belay view
Headwall center belay view

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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this pitch with an approach as described here. I do not remember the bolt being there when I first did this climb back in the 90's.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jul 22, 2012

Killer fingers with great position - easy to link this with Crossbow for a nice long pitch.

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