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Dave's Dinghy
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Heads you win T 
Route One T 

Heads you win 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Paul Muehl, Bob Archbold, and Jeff Muehl
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 24, 2008

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Description 

You may want your partner to win this coin flip. The climbing is very continous and probably a "little" harder than the orginal 5.9 rating.

This bold climb starts on the west side of the rock. Follow the NW corner passing two old pins and 2 new bolts near the top. The boldest variation heads straight up the face, but the difficulties could be eased by following the chimney to the left for a while. Approaching the thin crack in the center of the face is stout and X rated if the pin fails. The upper wall has better gear, but is very pumpy.

Location 

The route follows the NW corner...

Protection 

Double set of aliens, nuts, and RP's.


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By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Aug 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

The the original line climbs up the chimney on NW side then moves onto the bulging upper face.

Greg Child climbed the left most direct variation in 1979??? and is 5.10+ X. The right most direct variation was first climbed by Paul Muehl in 1982 and is 5.9+ X.

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