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Heads of the Valley 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cupps and Wilke? '93?
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: Brian Weinstein on Jun 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Heads of the Valley.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route takes the prominent dike system that diagonals right along the southeast face. The start is the crux and is heady though a fixed stopper eases the groundfall potential. Cruise through the two-move crux, and follow the line of bolts until the dike ends.


5 bolts, 1 fixed stopper, 1 pin, and 1 set of large stoppers. Belay near a pin, walk off.

Photos of Heads of the Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Full route photo. Follows the dike!
Full route photo. Follows the dike!
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan Martin following Heads of the Valley.
Evan Martin following Heads of the Valley.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
The route.

Comments on Heads of the Valley Add Comment
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By FCJohn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 6, 2007

This route has a very stout, boulder start with a strenuous first clip. There was a small and manky nut before the first bolt that I'm not sure would hold a fall.

I placed a orange TCU and a medium nut in between some of the bolts. Continue climbing right on the dike until you reach a pod with a manky old pin. Set up a anchor with #0.75, 0.5 BD and a few nuts to bring up your second. Walk off to the climber's right.
By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 29, 2008

Tough start, definitely harder than the guidebook (Fat Crack Country) rating of 9+. The holds especially towards the beginning aren't as obvious as they look. Yeah there is a few good places for gear but far in between, I wouldn't want to do this without the bolts.
By Tom Kelley
Oct 5, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

The climbing is ok, but the formation you will be climbing on is so unique that I feel obligated to give this route more stars. It is possible to back up the fixed nut with a tiny cam (smallest Camalot or Metolius) with just a little fidgeting. This makes the stretch for the first clip more comfortable for us short folks. I'd also strongly recommend carrying gear to place between the bolts. Having climbed this route once before the bolts were added, I can definitely say this route is less adventurous but a lot more enjoyable with them in place.
By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Aug 25, 2014

This is a fun route to try and clean on a downclimb. I believe the Voo guidebook by Zach and Rachael have this route mixed up with something else, because it took me a little while to figure out what I was climbing on this wall until I cross checked the book with M.P. The book has the name Heads of the Valley with the wrong rating and description. The description is right on for a route two climbs to the left of Heads of the Valley. I believe Da Gyps Route is what the book describes. Correct me if I'm wrong, it was my first trip to the Voo.
By bart cubrich 1
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is one of my favorite face climbs in the Voo at a low grade. Compared to Curry's Diagonal, it could be 9+, but I like 10c better because I fell on it. I clipped the "manky nut," but if I did it again, I'd skip it. Tall folks can clip the first bolt standing on the ledge.

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