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Headless Horseman 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Phillips summer 1987, FFA: Greg Phillips summer 1987
Page Views: 2,618
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 26, 2006

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Just above the bolted belay anchor.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A fun route with good position on the Third Horseman, which is adjacent to the tallest tower just to a climber's right.

Starting with a step off of a bolted belay onto the face it meanders up good rock with consistent and fun 5.10+ climbing. The bolts are spaced pretty well, which makes for some spicy moves once you start moving around the aretes.


10 bolts to a bolted anchor.

One of the bolts on the belay stance at the bottom has mysteriously gone missing, so there's only one (very solid) bolt remaining. It might be possible to weasel in a cam or nut nearby to have a second piece, but the single bolt is probably fine.

Photos of Headless Horseman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down while climbing the route. Follow the ...
Looking down while climbing the route. Follow the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Headless Horsman goes up the pillar following roug...
BETA PHOTO: Headless Horsman goes up the pillar following roug...

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By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This enjoyable route feels taller than it is and features some enjoyable moves.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route. Technical, balancy, but not pumpy at all. The main crux is a short affair between the 4th and 5th bolt, but the movement on the arete above will get your attention. If you want to avoid hellish rope drag, use a long sling on the 3rd bolt. A 70m rope JUST makes the rappel.
By Joel Sprenger
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007

If your belayer is on the ledge, the climber can lower all the way down with a 60m rope. Great climb, and for the height, not pumpy at all. If your not comfortable with spaced bolts, you'll love this one.
By Chris Sepic
From: Bend, OR
Jun 22, 2013

Really fun route. Run out but very easy to the 1st bolt; throw in a .75 or #1 if you're feeling sketched.
By Sam Prentice
Apr 13, 2015

Halfway up is a sequence of 3 glue-in style eyebolts that are spinning freely. They're nested into the rock in a thin iron sleeve of some sort, not the epoxy/eyebolt combo common round here. Given your position it def messes with your head trying to understand how/if they are secure.

Bold stuff, still quality.
By kent benesch
Apr 21, 2015

As of April 21 2015, this route sports all new bolts and anchor. Enjoy!
By another Chad
Apr 21, 2015

Thanks Kent!

By Benjamin James
May 7, 2016

Kent, thanks so much for the bolt update. Every bolt looks great as of winter 2016. This thing is rad! Wanders left and right of the bolt line several times, a worthwhile and adventurous 10+ right in the thick of things on the front side.
By Phildlm
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

You can belay from the double anchors about 30' up. It's easy to scramble up to them by going left into the gully and traversing back right on 3rd class rock which is very easy with good hands/feet. A 70m rope will allow lowering to the bottom from a ground belayer. The crux is around the fifth bolt - suddenly all the feet disappear and the hands go thin for a few moves. I can confirm that a 15' lead fall from here is apparently safe :-)

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