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Lower Grotto Wall
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Before There Were Nine S 
Coldfusion T 
Crime Victim S 
Cryogenics T 
Engagement, The S 
Espresso Love S 
Girly Man S 
Grotto Wall Traverse T 
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 
Headless Franken Chicken S 
Insurrection S 
Knuckle Head, The S 
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Pea Brain S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 
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Stand By Your Van T,S 
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Tarzan S 
Tommy's 13b S 
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Victims of Fashion T,S 
Wire and Fire T,S 

Headless Franken Chicken 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Jay 1975 on Jun 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The route itself is pretty sustained. The hardest parts are probably at the 1st to 2nd bolts and at the end, since you're PUMPED by then.


H.F.C. is just a few feet left of Cryogenics and has a bolt at 6 or 8 feet off the ground (most will not clip it). Follow the flake/laybacks and then traverse right 4 feet to a sloper/mantel move. It has easy moves to the Fixe rings. This can be cleaned on rappel or lower-off.


10 draws.

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By Scott Bennett
Jun 15, 2011

Fun route, Jay, thanks for putting it up!
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Jun 15, 2011

Try "Headless Crankin' Chicken .12b". I linked it up on Saturday. Long and pumpy. Give a shout if you head over again.
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 5, 2013

The route says trad/sport, but no indications are made of needing cams. Am I missing something? Thanks!
By Alvaro Arnal
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 5, 2013

Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description.