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Head Up Dirty 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Lloyd
New Route: Yes
Season: faces east, morning sun
Page Views: 3,125
Submitted By: mlloyd on Sep 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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The crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Start on two good, incut crimpers, climb straight up following bolts to a good rest below the roof (12a/b), then clip the draw in the roof and make big moves out the horizontal roof (12+). This is height-dependent. Mantel and clip the anchors.


This is on the east side of Tunnel Two, right of the tunnel. It is above Hip at the Lip and Power Play and below Idiot Savant. Approach by walking up the slabs on the north side of the road before Tunnel Two (like you're walking to Twitch, 5.12d). Continue up slabs until it's possible to walk left to the base of the cliff.


9 quickdraws.

Photos of Head Up Dirty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Head Up Dirty.
Head Up Dirty.
Rock Climbing Photo: Head Up Dirty. Photo taken by Adam Peters.
Head Up Dirty. Photo taken by Adam Peters.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of Head Up Dirty.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Head Up Dirty.

Comments on Head Up Dirty Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 30, 2017
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 21, 2011

Nice work, Matt, can't wait to try it....
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Oct 4, 2011

Already quite clean despite being so new (much more so than Ghetto Activity). Route climbs really well... fun moves through the roof! Thanks for the effort on some new routes, Matt.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Oct 5, 2011

I appreciate the feedback, Steve, nice to get positive words on MP once and a while.
By Cassidy Hill
Oct 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

A nice addition to the canyon and a reason to visit this seldom climbed at crag. Depending on your strengths, the techy bottom half may seem cruxier than the roof. Thanks, Matt.
By monkeyvanya
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2012

Lower part felt much harder than the roof to me. Roof is wild and exciting nevertheless.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 17, 2012

This seems pretty hard unless you are probably 6' or taller.
By Ben Collett
Apr 18, 2014

If one wants, a lower start is available off of the nice, big, jug rail that forms the first foot for the regular start. This adds some difficulty to the route. "Low Down Dirty?"
By Max Caudle
Apr 28, 2015

Rad line! 5'8" and she goes... two ways to get through out from the roof.
By Alexander K
From: The road
Nov 14, 2016

A chunk broke off the crux hold at the roof. The route still goes, but hopefully the hold doesn't break anymore. Overall, there is still a lot of loose stuff on this climb and the bolt line next to it. A helmet may be worthwhile.

The roof crux is incredibly height-dependent. Probably between 11+ and 12+ depending on height and wingspan.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Nov 27, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Another data point: with a 5'6" wingspan, this still goes, but you're going to have to work in the roof (and do a bit of jumping down low)! Full on Sharma dyno to the lip, and controlling the swing proved to be the most difficult. The undercling crimp is garbage, and I am not sure how much better it was prior to breaking (mentioned above). I'd say maybe 12a to the rest (classic moves), then anywhere from 12a/b to 12+ for the full route depending on wingspan in the roof.
By Garrett Garner-Wells
From: Denver, CO
Mar 30, 2017

I'm 6'2" with a +2 ape index and thought the bottom of the route was harder than the roof. Fantastic climb!
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Mar 30, 2017

Holy reachy bejesus, man! At 5'7" with 0 ape, I felt like I was always an inch or two away from ALL the holds, starting from the first move off the ground. A really cool route, but get ready for a struggle-fest if you lack the wingspan....

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