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Head On 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Kryger, Tony Calderone, 2012
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The roof. Short but burly.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


We climbed this surprisingly good route in April, not having a clue what it was, then with the publication of Calderone’'s LCC guide (vol. 2) earlier this summer, voila, the details emerge. The first part of the route apparently is the same as Baja Breakdown, and the second part is referenced in zozo'’s comment posted on the Baja Breakdown page, but the best climbing is above on the headwall of the buttress. The Calderone guide shows it going in two pitches, with chains atop the first pitch, but we did it in one long pitch and I suspect this is the better value (use runners liberally). Nice addition to the area.

Start in a cool little right-facing and soon-arching corner past a pin, step left, then climb steeper ground past three more fixed pieces to the stance. Resist the urge to turn the lead over to your buddy, and jam the nasty little overhanging crack above (crux) and climb through a blocky section until able to step onto the headwall. A ways up there is a bolt. Get to it, then keep moving to and up a seam to the right that leads to the chains.


See Baja Breakdown page.


Nuts (steel or brass useful), single set of cams to maybe 2.5”, draws, and runners. Two raps down the route.

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By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 22, 2014

Destroyed my hand on the roof. The crack is very gritty with sharp crystals. Too painful for me - I'll go back and do it with tape.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch pain.
2nd pitch pain.
By zoso
Mar 23, 2014

Where the hell is your wrist?!!?

Or your forearm for that matter?

Is your hand attached to your upper arm?

If so, forgive the insensitivity.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 26, 2014

A few comments -

The roof: You can get a nice #1 Camalot at the bottom. If you would like to be really secure for the tougher moves, a #4 Camalot fits nicely up high.

The "headwall": The description here makes it seem as if you'll need to run it out to get to the bolt, but you don't. The protection is great in the #1-ish sized crack that you follow to the bolt.

As stated, if you do this as one long pitch, use runners liberally, especially down low.

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