Hayden Peak Rock Climbing
Hayden Peak is located on the Mirror Lake Highway. It is the unmistakeable peak that dominates the view to the East from Bald Mountain Pass. No hiking trail exists according to the Forest Service. The South Ridge seems to be the most used route to the summit and may be the Uintas best day hike. Expect lots of 4th class scrambling, some of it may be exposed depending on the route taken.
Park at the Highline Trailhead in the Hikers parking lot. Locate a climbers trail to the northeast of the bathrooms. There is a tall twin tree stump that is visible from the parking lot looking to the east. This is your trail marker. Follow this trail through the forest alternating between traversing to the north and climbing up to the east. At treeline head up a shallow gully that is often snow covered until mid-summer. When the gully steepens, look for cairns and a trail heading north and switchbacking a few times before continueing its northward traverse. Cross a wide couloir and follow a rough trail up its left side, at the top head north across a short boulder field and onto a ledge system that traverses the west face. Make your way up to the cliffs. 1 hour approach.
In my opinion Hayden Peak is home to some of the best multi-pitch climbing in the Uintas. There is a lot of adventure to be had in a very nice setting. This is a summertime crag to be sure. Climbing on the multi-pitch routes in anything but the nicest weather can be a chilly experience for the unprepared.
A few notes on Hayden Peak climbing.
- Bring a rack. There are not many pure sport climbs. Even routes that appear fully bolted may require some gear. A good rack for most routes would be a purple TCU to a #3 camalot and small to medium nuts. A few more gear intensive routes exist and a double rack to a #2camalot plus a #4camalot would be more appropriate.
- Most routes are adequately bolted and/or protected for the leader comfortable at the respective grade.
- Generally speaking, the climbing difficulty tops out at 5.11+, with many routes in the 5.10 range.
- 1 60m rope should suffice for most routes. But be careful and pay attention because many routes where put up using a 70m rope and a few 2 rope rappels do exist.
Climbing Season For the Uinta Mountains area.
Weather station 15.2 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Hayden Peak
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hayden Peak:
Featured Route For Hayden Peak
Where Vultures Dare 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Utah
: Uinta Mountains
: ... : Iron Hayden Wall
Way back in 92 I was a 24-year-old climbing keener with aspirations for unclimbed rock. Believing that if you just look a little farther than the last guy, the fruit is out there just waiting to be picked, and you know Im right. Well back in 92, after a few recon trips. Craig Martin and I carried every piece of gear we owned at the time out to the Iron Hayden Wall, which probably wasnt all that much stuff but surely included some slung hexes and a few pitons, but not a bolt ki...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
Jul 13, 2015
The Highline trailhead has two sections to park in, an upper and a lower. the two parking lots are only separated by a few hundred feet, but the stump mentioned above is easily visible from the upper parking lot and not particularly visible from the lower. To get to the upper, take the right fork of the road after turning into the highline trailhead.
If you're in the lower parking lot, head to the bathrooms, then head due south to find the tree stump. Once you're on the trail it's super easy to follow.