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Haycrack 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Anthony Seidita, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 16, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Mosaic of Haycrack route on Haystack's Panther Gor...

Description 

Set in Panther Gorge, NY, this technical slide lies over 9 miles from the nearest trailhead. While climbing this as a stand-alone route entails a great deal of hiking, the combination of this route with a climb of the slide just to the south (they join at the top) makes a nice day of climbing. Portions of the southern slide fall in the low technical climbing range with nice lines of face climbing. Alternately, combine it with a climb of Mt. Marcy's East Face just across the gorge.

Face climb 15 feet up to a hand-crack via excellent stone. The crack offers bomber holds throughout. Continue to follow the crack that leads up the face over a bulge to a 1 dominant overlap at 80 feet. This makes a good belay point if you want to turn this into a 2 pitch route. Follow the crack up another 30 feet to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall, step down over a 6' corner, continue on easy slab to end the traverse in the woods after 40 feet.

Either bushwhack up through the woods to the top of the slide or back down to the beginning of the route.

On Adirondack Rock

Location 

Follow the approach described in the Panther Gorge area or park at Adirondack Loj and hike to 4-corners between Mt. Skylight and Mt. Marcy. Descend 1.2 miles into Panther Gorge where a lean-to and several campsites near Marcy Brook place you close to the base of the slide.

Follow Marcy Brook up to 3,375 elevation where a drainage stream enters from the right; this is near the beaver ponds (on the left). Follow through the woods just south of the stream and to the slides after about 10 minutes' bushwhack up 200 feet of elevation gain. There are two closely adjacent slides, the northern (left) track hosts the Haycrack route. Climb several ledges to a right rising dike that leads to the base of the slab.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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