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Hawk-Eagle Ridge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anthurium S 
Body Lice TR 
Bold Finger T,TR 
Bowling Alley T 
Brother Jug T 
Central Park T 
Cinch Crack T 
Comeback Arete, The T 
Crab, The T 
Cracker Jack T 
Dead Left T 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 
Devo T 
Die Heeda Rule T 
Emergency Brake T 
Grim Reaper T 
Grubble Gully T 
Hangman, The T 
Heart of Gold S 
Heva TR 
Hooker T 
Hopscotch T,TR 
I've Been Sick T 
Inflorescence S 
January Playmate T 
January Rush T 
Larch, The T 
Last of a Dying Breed  T 
Leapfrog T,TR 
Lips Like Sugar S 
Low Profile TR 
Molehill Direct T 
Mountains Out of Molehills T 
Nails to Nowhere T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pepe le Peu T 
Peter's Out T 
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 
Plinth T,TR 
Prime Time Climb T 
Resisting Arete T,TR 
Roof's Way T 
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 
Rush Buick T 
Russian Arete T 
Self Abuse T 
Shallow Grave T 
Short One T 
Siberian Khatru T,TR 
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 
Slide, The T 
Squeamish, The T,TR 
Stay Hungry T 
Stop! T 
Stranglehold T 
Tekneek T 
Tombstone T 
Uninspiring Wall T 
Walk About T 
Werner Brothers' Roof T 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 

Hawk-Eagle Ridge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.93231, -105.28413 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,903
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from Martincjm


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  • Description 

    H-E Ridge is a relatively hidden and quiet place somewhat like the West Ridge in shape, but it is smaller, with fewer quality lines, and a less desirable approach. Some very good routes do exist here but only a dozen or so. The pros are that it's not crowded (at all), shady, and protected by the wind and noise.

    The cons are the approach, lack of lengthy routes, and good rock interspersed with lesser quality rock. Expect rather steep hike that ranges anywhere from 15-25 minutes.

    Getting There 

    Hike as you would to Wind Tower all the way up the hill past the start for Wind Ridge to the point where one hits the downclimb trail. Don't head toward Wind Tower at this point. Instead, find the East Slabs descent trail on the west side of the gully (near Redgarden), and follow this up steep steps. Some scrambling is required to pass through a slot over a boulder on the east side of the gully a short ways after the start of the trail.

    Continue on up vegetated gully until you see a prominent roof with a finger crack splitting it. Some fixed gear may be in the crack. This is basically the start of Hawk Eagle Ridge. To reach the upper sections, continue following the base of the ridge on the right side of the gully (the upper section isn't very visible from this vantage point). Some sections of the trail are loose, and steep so be careful in wet conditions.

    Per Clint Locks: there's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 0.1 miles from here

    63 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',26],['Bomb',3]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hawk-Eagle Ridge:
    Rush Buick   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    January Playmate   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Russian Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Siberian Khatru   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Die Heeda Rule   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Heart of Gold   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Cinch Crack   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

    Featured Route For Hawk-Eagle Ridge
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Lloyd on the co-FA, check out the last piece ...

    Last of a Dying Breed 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge
    This route begins as for "The Hangman". It climbs the runout and scary crux of that route but then diverges out directly above (rather than left into the easier climbing of The Hangman) into the obvious, blank face above. Climb the unprotected, perfect edges on the face on the more than vertical headwall culminating with a big move to a mega-jug at the lip.This route was put up as a headpoint, and keeping with the spirit of Eldo, no bolts or fixed gear were implemented. It was clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Hawk-Eagle Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere along Hawk-Eagle.
    Somewhere along Hawk-Eagle.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Beta photo for the Cinch Crack/DOA area of Hawk Ea...
    Beta photo for the Cinch Crack/DOA area of Hawk Ea...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great views, good climbing, no people.
    Great views, good climbing, no people.

    Comments on Hawk-Eagle Ridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2017
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 7, 2001
    Although This crag has plenty of "not worth it" routes, it also has good craging. All of the routes are fairly short, but some, such as Tombstone (11a), Die Heeda Rule (11b), Brother Jug (10a), and Self Abuse (10c/d) deserve a try when you want to do some gymnastic trad climbing.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 26, 2002
    I was up at the end of Hawk Eagle Ridge today dinking around helping on a project. It was decided to rest by sliding down the ridge top roping.

    I believe that in the haste of the early 80's to "fill in" that some ratings are severely flawed, specifically the roof piercing variations for Peter's Out and Siberian Khatru....Perhaps the grades below strong, first-ascender standards blend and become difficult to differentiate. Although a small corner of a major crag I submit for review by the community a resampling of these minor routes so that the record can be corrected in future editions of the local guides.

    Otherwise, the upper most H.E.R. (peaceful...) has many excellent, two-three move (easily top-roped) test pieces for whatever grade they should be rated. An excellent local playground for solitude and nature appreciating, aspiring climbers.
    By Joe Huggins
    From: Grand Junction
    Sep 17, 2002
    I'm curious, "AC", how you can ascribe haste to people you don't even know. When I was with friends doing lines on upper Hawk Eagle in the early 80s we weren't in a hurry to "fill in". We were there to have fun; perhaps you should try it. As for the ratings, what is the complaint exactly?
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 18, 2002
    As for the grades here, they seemed fine to me. I've climbed both Peter's Out and Siberian Khatru (as well as almost everything else there below 5.12) and I thought that Siberian might be a little bit tough, but arguably reasonable. In my opinion it isn't a total sandbag- 5.9, I thought. Having done 500+ other routes in Eldo, I believe that most of the rest of the grades on Hawk-Eagle are fair by comparison.

    Since you did not sign your name, AC, I have no idea where you are coming from, what your point of view is, or what your agenda may be.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Sep 25, 2002
    Beware, perhaps you already know. There is an awful lot of poison ivy here from about 1/3 the way up to the top. If not, steroid creams and/or prednisone work.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 10, 2002
    Be aware that many of the moderate 5.7-5.9 routes on the slabs on the lower half of Hawk Eagle ridge are hard to find using Rossiter's guide and look like they have poor pro. There are many similar climbs close together, and may of the climbs follow very thin or closed off cracks.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2002
    I second Ivan's assessment. Beware in particular the route "Stranglehold, 5.7" (left of Cinch Crack). In Rossiter this route does not have an "S", but it definitely deserves one. That is one scary 5.7, assuming we went the right way! I would add this route if I could remember more about it ...
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 6, 2004
    What do people think about a ladder to get past the big chockstone leading to Hawk Eagle Ridge? This is also part of the East Slabs descent. It's very dangerous on either side of the chockstone although you could, of course, belay it. The west side of Redgarden has those major wooden steps and a metal ladder, but that's for erosion control. Seems like a ladder here at the base of Hawk Eagle Ridge would be justified.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2004
    I agree with Matt on this one. Bad idea. Unjustified. Not dangerous unless you don't know what you're doing. The other ladders mentioned were put in due to a washout of the prior trail by a rainstorm. As you say, it can be belayed if felt necessary. It would be another example of a convenience item that would detract from the natural beauty of the location. No, please, no.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 8, 2004
    I'd have to agree with the 'no ladder' stance. I jam and stem down the right side of the boulder in tennis shoes with a full sized pack on. I've seen 2 dogs make it up the slabs to the left, so all in all, I'm going to have to say it's not that hard.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 8, 2004
    I too would vote against the ladder for a couple of reasons. First, it is neither the hardest nor most dangerous part of the East Slabs descent. The upper slab part where it is "easy" is probably the most dangerous part as a slip would likely be fatal, and it is not so easy when running with water and threatened with lightning. Second, the chimney past the chockstone is pretty easy when dry and is somewhat protected from getting wet in storms. The slab on the left is hairy when wet. Third, a ladder would be hard to conceal and you might even be able to see it from the parking lot.

    It does seem like the chimney side has grown smoother over the years, there are some huge handholds at the top of the chimney but they're pretty rounded. Perhaps a discrete rap anchor would make more sense for when there is a storm. I think if the chimney was wet there wouldn't be anybody wanting to go up it.
    By Warren Teissier
    Mar 8, 2004
    I agree that a ladder would not be a good idea.

    Before I knew one could downclimb the chockstone side (first time down the East slabs descent) I tried to descend the slab side (Downclimbing right). That time of year, I found it covered with slime and seeping with water so we rapped the slab (I think from a tree that had slings).

    As we were rapping, we saw a couple of climbers downclimb the chocksotne side and realized it was not as hard as first thought.

    So, in case you are not feeling like downclimbing the chockstone and the slab is wet, you can still rap it. No need to add bolts or ladders.

    Now if you are caught in a strom, you better head for higher ground and wait it out cause either way of descending could get you killed.

    I have heard that there are some awesome rockslides in this gully when it rains...

    By Adam Hicks`
    Apr 14, 2004
    My dog scrambles the slab easy as pie every try.
    By Jason Haas
    Jul 1, 2006
    It was nice to see some guys working on the trail last Thursday.
    By Dustin B
    From: Steamboat
    Jan 19, 2011
    We found a squeeze/tunnel through just behind the chimney that is much safer and easier for those who are uncomfortable with the slab or the chimney.
    By 419
    From: Sacramento
    Feb 22, 2012
    This is the Eldo crag for a windy day. There was a High Wind Advisory with 40-60 mph gusts, and the climbing here was comfortable.

    Go for it.
    By Matt Pierce
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 14, 2014
    We traversed left of the chockstone and thought that was an easier way up - on the way back down someone has placed some new cord around a tree that you could rap with if you don't want to downclimb the chockstone, etc. - could use a rap ring though.
    By Mike McHugh
    Jul 10, 2017
    There is a credible report of a turkey vulture nest in the cave above Emergency Brake and Nobody's Home. Please consider giving these guys a little space until they fledge. I'll post a little signage up there this week to indicate where the birds are.

    Mike McHugh
    Park Resource Technician
    Eldorado Canyon State Park

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