|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]|
|FA:||B. Bindner and E. Holland, 02/2008|
|Submitted By:||Bruce Bindner on Jan 28, 2009|
|Comments on Have a Scabulous Day||Add Comment|
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By Steve Powell
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
|according to the Croft and Lewis new guidebook, the name of this route is Seamingly Cool.|
By Bruce Bindner
Apr 20, 2009
Uhh, negative. "Seamingly Cool" is located to the right of "Every Day is Earth Day", and was established by Alan Bartlett in the 1980s. Alan has a lot better taste than I in choosing what quality rock to climb. His route is pretty reasonable, and "seams school."
"Have a Scabulous Day" is located to the left of "Every Day is Earth Day", i.e. between that route and "Have a Slabulous Day". If you thought 5.7 was too soft a rating for "Have a Slabulous Day" because of rock and friction quality, you would have thought this ugly pile was about 5.9.
Only someone seriously deranged would even consider climbing it.
Guilty as charged.
"Have a Scabulous Day" is the jumble of seriously detached death flakes, hollow rock land mines, and hair-trigger choss. Look for the worst rock. The only reason I went there was training for climbing stuff like Canadian Rockies limestone. Glad you didn't get on it.
Edited to say:
I've added "Seamingly Cool" to the Routes and will add it to the photo of the area to clear up the confusion.
Cheers and stay safe,