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(u) Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
Amphetamine Grip T 
Animal Farm S 
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Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
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Flex T 
Gulag Archipelago S 
Havana T 
I Almost Died T 
Lets Face It S 
Moscow T 
Orgasmophoria S 
Papillion S 
Peking T 
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Pop Art S 
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Straight Outta' Peking S 
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Titanium Jag T 

Havana 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Wayne Haack, Steve Thompson 1975
Season: spring to fall
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Kevin MP on Jul 28, 2017

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This rarely climbed route sits just uphill from Moscow and is a good alternative if that route is busy. The rock appears atrocious at first, but with good stemming and jamming technique most of the choss is avoidable, and becomes cleaner higher up.

P1: Start up the loose corner, using both cracks to stem around a bulge. Continue on better rock with multiple cracks in the corner to a section of easier rock, to a belay around the corner to the right.

P2: Follow wide cracks up the right-facing corner. The rock is great on this pitch but still has some lichen. Belay at the top of the corner on a large shelf.

Step left to the top of Moscow and follow 4th class up for 50 feet to a great perch at the top of the Red Wall. Put on sneakers and walk up to the Misery Ridge trail.

Location 

The next corner system uphill from Moscow. Scramble up and right around Breakdown in Paradise (bolted 5.10) on a loose trail to the starting perch on the left.

Protection 

Standard rack, possible doubles in hand sizes, at least one #4. A second #4 or a #5 wouldn't go to waste on the second pitch. Helmets.


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