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Torres Del Paine
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"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) T 
"Waiting for godot" East Face Torre Central (750M 7b/M6) T 
Monzino route (on North Tower) T 

"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A2+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2600', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A2+ R [details]
FA:  Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans)
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer,January-February-2009
Page Views: 2,609
Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Belgas en Sudafrican Route Central tower

Description 

We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.

Rock Climbing Photo: Camp at pitch 5
Camp at pitch 5


Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the route
Base of the route


Rock Climbing Photo: Chino Climbing 3 pitch
Chino Climbing 3 pitch


Rock Climbing Photo: Felipe Cleaning  3 pitch
Felipe Cleaning 3 pitch


Rock Climbing Photo: Base
Base


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Rock Climbing Photo: none
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Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 8
Pitch 8


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Rock Climbing Photo: Bad Weather
Bad Weather


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Rock Climbing Photo: pitch10
pitch10


Location 

East Face Noth tower (Torres del Paine National Park,Chile)

Protection 

All Anchors have a 3 inch bolt and pitons. At pitch 5 you can set your camp and collect water.


Photos of "Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) Slideshow Add Photo
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Rock Climbing Photo: Preparando todo.
Preparando todo.
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Rock Climbing Photo: portaledge
portaledge
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
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Rock Climbing Photo: Febrero-2010
Febrero-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Luchito Y Manuelete -2009
Luchito Y Manuelete -2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Morrena
Morrena
Rock Climbing Photo: Bivy de los belgas
Bivy de los belgas
Rock Climbing Photo: Felipe,Mono,Chapa,Claudio y Drew
Felipe,Mono,Chapa,Claudio y Drew
Rock Climbing Photo: Chino,Claudio y Chapa
Chino,Claudio y Chapa
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Rock Climbing Photo: Febrero 2010
Febrero 2010
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Rock Climbing Photo: Febrero-2010
Febrero-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Chapita and Felipe
Chapita and Felipe
Rock Climbing Photo: Febrero-2010
Febrero-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: chino
chino
Rock Climbing Photo: none
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Rock Climbing Photo: none
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Show All 41 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on "Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: USA
Nov 18, 2010

Amazing! thanks for the pics!
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Jul 10, 2011

Yeah Francisco, nice work!