"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+)
||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2600', Grade VI
|Original: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A2+ R [details]|
|FA: || Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||3,390|
|Submitted By: ||Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010|
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Belgas en Sudafrican Route Central tower
We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.
East Face Noth tower (Torres del Paine National Park,Chile)
All Anchors have a 3 inch bolt and pitons. At pitch 5 you can set your camp and collect water.
|Photos of "Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) Slideshow
Luchito Y Manuelete -2009
Felipe,Mono,Chapa,Claudio y Drew
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