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Harvey's Wallbangers, Right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,640
Submitted By: andrewjessee1 on Sep 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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BETA PHOTO: Harvey's Wallbanger, Right, seen from the starting...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


More Sustained than the Center route. Pretty strait forward. First pitch has a lot of easy lay back and face. Crux section is on the short, if you belay about 180' from the start, second pitch. Two bulges with good hands.


Just right of Harvey's Wallbangers, Center.


set nuts, cams .5 to 3 in

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By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2010

Route is worth doing if you're trying to break away from 5.5-5.6 trad.

First pitch is dirty till about half way up, then it follows a pretty fun crack about 40 feet till 2nd pitch. From there, burn up the rest of the crack to a couple of awkward bulges. First one requires some nice jamming skills and high feet. Second (the "5.7" ) bulge will scare you if you're only looking at the tiny dike running parallel with the crack. Look to the right for a solid crack, then do a horizontal pull up (beach whale) or with finesse, then it's sent.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun liebacking with a fun roof. A #4 C4 will protect the crux move. I always felt the first bulge was the crux, while the second was relatively tame. Just follow Michael's beta and you should be fine.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did this early March when there was still snow from the previous weekend. We started on Harvey's left and retreated because of ice after a few pieces up.

The first pitch of Harvey's right is pretty straightforward with some liebacks. Try to construct the belay closer to the crux on pitch 2 to minimize drag. Being the scared 5.7 trad climber I am, I was intimidated by the crux bulge and thus avoided it by traversing over to Harvey's left right before the crux. You can do this by delicately finding feet on small dikes. There is a bulge on the left route to that I beach-whaled but much less scary than the 5.7 crux. If you do this, bring LONG slings as there will be a lot of rope drag. Or just do the regular route.
By splitclimber
Jul 25, 2016

can do in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. belay 20' or so up from the tree or simul a little bit.

fun worthwhile route. I didn't see the need for a 4" piece to safely protect the crux roof. A 3" for the first roof, then a 1" for the second roof.

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