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a2. The Uberfall - right
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YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: George Evans and Robert Grae, 1953
Page Views: 3,487
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up "Harvard." The "big flak...


From the boulder, weasel your way up the wide crack/squeeze chimney into the corner. Continue up the corner/chimney, past the big flake thing sticking out of the corner, to the top.


In a large, left-facing corner -- to the right from Crimson Corner. Look for a boulder leaning against the left face of the corner, with a wide crack splitting an overhang above.

To descend, walk off left via the Uberfall Descent.


a light rack, no anchors

Photos of Harvard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Harvard.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Harvard.

Comments on Harvard Add Comment
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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 8, 2012

Climbed this for the first time this year. It's a bit of a novelty running up behind the big boulder. Not exposed, probably good for bringing a newb up on his first climb. It's harder than a 5.2 as you ascend the 2nd chimney to the top. Walk off.
By Barrett Stetson
Aug 14, 2012

Don't think this is a good climb for a new leader. A couple of awkward moves, ok gear, but almost a guarantee of rope drag. Other than the initial move through the slot, nothing exciting.
By kswissto
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2013

A bit claustrophobic at the bottom. If you like spiders, this climb is for you!
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 9, 2014

Brought a newb up this on Sunday. It was his first and last climb. He left the cliff immediately. Guess it's not a good climb for a newb.
By AndyGriffin Griffin
May 13, 2015

The actual rout goes BEHIND the boulder, going up the face is considerably more difficult.
By LB Edwards
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 24, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Beginning is definitely a 5.2 of chimney climbing. Once past that it's definitely 5.4 like the guide suggests. Would take the optional belay before the larger chimney towards the top as zig-zagging protection is inevitable and brings a lot of drag for the leftward traverse at the top.

Maybe not the best way to expose your newbie friends to the wonders of trad climbing, but for those who have done a couple pitches and love stemming and mantling this is the climb for them.

Tons of spiders, but whatever, it's one hell of an adventure and totally worth doing when everything else is taken.

Keep left of the protruding flake then mount on top and mantle up to the ledge to the right. Once up there go left above the roof. Tons of trees to anchor up.

My buddy led it after me and went right and went into the chimney behind "Trapped Like a Rat" which might have worsen the already strong rope drag.
By byPerched
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

After walking past Harvard many times, I saw a great photo of the climb on the GATrapps Gallery and climbed it. I really liked it! The short route offers short bursts of moves in a chimney, with hand jams, with shoulder scumming and finally with stemming past an overhang. Doing all this on one short pitch is a lot of fun. For me, the hardest move was the last but this move was the easiest to protect from below. As the route is not airy or committing, I can understand the low rating given that Harvard is in the Gunks, BUT excepting those shortfalls, this route is much better than the mixed tenor of the prior comments suggest.

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