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Haru no Modori Yuki Slab
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Haru no Modori Yuki - Spring Snow T 

Haru no Modori Yuki - Spring Snow 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 180', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Christian Storms on Sep 4, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Japanese topo with translation.


Easily one of the best places to take a first time climber. Fun, easy slab route. Lots of variations. A fun and easy slab route. Many variations are possible.
Pitch 1. 5.6 Start at the bottom, middle left of the slab. Climb straight up following three bolts to three anchor with natty slings.
Pitch 2. 5.6 Move back onto the slab. Climb leftwards to the overlap and pull over (keep right of the small trees) at a bolt. Climb up and left across a fragile flake to belay at a lovely tree on a good ledge.
Pitch 3. 5.6 Pull onto the slab behind the tree. Climb up and slightly left to a big ledge below a corner - a variety of lines exists, but a variety of protection does not. Just remember you're heading for the corner above a small pine. Belay on trees below and right of the corner - take your pick.
Pitch 4. 5.7 Climb the neat corner to the top (crux of the route if you do it, good medium Friends) or dodge it on the left to finish over blocky bulges (5.5).
Either rappel route, or scramble right to the Kamoshika Hiking Course. Or rappel midway down and try Koi wa Oatsuku - Love Should Be Hot 5.10c**


Take a set of cams. Not many bolts past the first pitch (which has three).

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