Harry Potter Wand Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The 3 left-most routes, Duddley, Tante Petunia and...
Shady north-facing crag with lots of well-protected routes. The crag seeps forever, making several of the routes unclimbable throughout most of the year. Wait for long dry periods. It had snowed/rained a lot throughout the Winter/Spring in 2013 and the crag was still seeping in July even after 3 weeks of no rain!
There are several short, powerful routes on the far left, then it eases into less powerful and slightly longer, then there are some more hard routes which follow small holds, and finally longer routes on the far right.
You should be able to climb 5.11 to have a nice day here, as there are only 5 routes under 5.11a. There are 20 routes total, maxing out at 5.13a.
From Waischenfeld, drive in the direction of Nankendorf. Where the road heads left to Breitenlesau, there's a parking area on the left right before the turn. Park here and cross the road that goes to Breitenlesau. You'll see a forest service road headed up into the forest. Follow this for 140m to a little climber's trail on the left which leads straight to the crag.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 14.9 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Harry Potter Wand
A nice view of nearly the whole crag. This climber...