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Cannonball Corner T 
Cary Granite T 
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Emerald Highway, The T 
Escape Route T 
Espresso T 
Good Evans T 
Harry Cary T 
High Variance T 
Old Rappel Route T 
Parallel Universe T 
Phil-a-Guster T 
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Rusty Dagger, The T 
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 
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Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 

Harry Cary 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: M. Reeser & M. Smith 9/21/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,625
Submitted By: dameeser on Sep 23, 2013

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It's a simple question, doctor! Would you eat the...


This is a tips to fingers variation into the roof pitch of Cary Granite. Instead of traversing in from atop the 2nd pitch of Cary Granite, traverse in from the 2nd pitch of Good Evans.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Good Evans, but belay atop the flake. The belay takes hand-sized pieces (5.10d).

P2: Climb the first 10-15 feet of the Good Evans crack until you can traverse left on a good rail. Then climb the tips to fingers crack into the Cary Granite roof and beyond (5.11).

P3: Climb to the top (5.10).

Although you don't get to climb the great p2 corner of Cary Granite, you do get to climb a great finger crack! The traverse into the crack is nowhere near as hard as the traverse in from the original route (probably 5.9).


Use the same as for Cary Granite, but add some RPs and finger-sized pieces for the variation.

Comments on Harry Cary Add Comment
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By Kirsten KDog
Sep 27, 2013

Nice job, boys!!! This sounds pretty cool!
By Brett Merlin
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2014

Knocked off a loose large v-chunk on the Harry Cary finger crack through the bulge. All it took was a heel strike kick from above. The crack is now much safer than before. I think it protects well with 0.75s. Enjoy!
By dameeser
From: denver
Sep 4, 2014

Yikes. I cleaned that section a little and I thought I got it all. A storm was rolling in, so I was a little rushed. I'm glad no one was hurt.

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