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Harper's Ferry

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From MP's sister site:

Harper's Ferry Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.3226, -77.7264 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 74,971
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Kelbel on Apr 23, 2012  with updates from Conrad S.
Forecast:
Tonight

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81° | 60°
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You & This Area
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Twilight at Harpers Ferry John Kelbel HDR Photo

Description 

The Harpers Ferry region includes cliffs in all 3 states MD, WV, and VA due to their close proximity to each other all the information is contained here under Maryland.

Here is the original historical guide to Harpers Ferry by Rob Savoye: welcomehome.org/rob/guides/mdh...

The Climbing ranges from multi-pitch trad, sport and top-roping areas to tons of excellent bouldering. Maryland Heights stands 200 feet tall and is the tallest cliff in central Maryland. It is REQUIRED to sign in at the ranger's information station to climb on Maryland Heights. None of the other areas require a sign in. Most of the rock in the region is a hard quartzite providing good crack systems and positive edges on the faces.

Contributing Web Sights
Harpers Ferry Climbing Guide
Harpers Ferry Climbing Blog
Indy's Underground Climbing Guide to Maryland

Getting There 

Harpers Ferry is located 17 miles South-West of Fredrick Maryland on interstate 340 where it crosses the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. The individual cliffs should provide specific parking information. The Mark train and Amtrack both stop at Harpers Ferry.
All of the Harpers Ferry cliffs are located on National Park Land and some of the parking areas will include a $10 entry fee, however a year pass can be purchased for $30 at the visitor center. Also the annual National Park Pass can be used as well. The National pass cost $80 and has two signature spots so it can be shared with one other person and covers entrance fees for the owner and 3 accompanying adults into all National Parks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.6 miles from here

268 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',22],['3 Stars',87],['2 Stars',125],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',24],['5.7',9],['5.8',22],['5.9',14],['5.10',32],['5.11',12],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',41],['V2-3',30],['V4-5',36],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Harper's Ferry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Harper's Ferry:
Little Dipper   V1 5     Boulder, 12'   Highlands
Blubber Shuffle   V1-2 5     Boulder, 15'   Highlands
Orion's Belt   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 10'   Highlands
Big Dipper   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 20'   Highlands
BiCeption   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Balcony Rock Boulders
Dirty Hooker   V4- 6B     Boulder, 10'   Balcony Rock Boulders
Fruit Cake   V4 6B     Boulder, 8'   Balcony Rock Boulders
Stinger Arete   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Highlands
Center Stage and All Alone   A2 PG13     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 80'   Maryland Heights, MD : Train Tunnel Wall
'D' Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Maryland Heights, MD : Sign Wall
Crown Of Thorns   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Balcony Rock
Hard Up Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   Maryland Heights, MD : Sign Wall
Carpet Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Skink Rock
Rags to Riches   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 33'   Skink Rock
Cold Steel Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Balcony Jr.
Popeye's   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   Balcony Rock
B & O Burn   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Balcony Jr.
Salty Dog Saloon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Balcony Jr.
Potomac Power Plant Pump   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Balcony Jr.
The Paymaster   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Balcony Jr.
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Harper's Ferry

Featured Route For Harper's Ferry
Rock Climbing Photo: Stinger Arete. The first send was fueled by a bee ...

Stinger Arete V4 6B  Maryland : Harper's Ferry : Highlands
sit start, climb the left leaning arete all the way until you are rolling up onto the top. Do not roll up right and out, follow it around left as far as seems reasonable....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maryland

Photos of Harper's Ferry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't climb mad, or sad, or even serious, at Harpe...
BETA PHOTO: Don't climb mad, or sad, or even serious, at Harpe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview sketch map of Harpers Ferry bouldering ar...
BETA PHOTO: Overview sketch map of Harpers Ferry bouldering ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview sketch of the bouldering areas on Elk Rid...
BETA PHOTO: Overview sketch of the bouldering areas on Elk Rid...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of town from top of Maryland Heights
View of town from top of Maryland Heights
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of roads leading to Harper's Ferry
BETA PHOTO: Map of roads leading to Harper's Ferry

Comments on Harper's Ferry Add Comment
Show which comments
By Reed Perry
Mar 9, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
MD Heights update: Went to Harper's Ferry - everything right of Union Walls and left of Train Tunnel Walls is closed due to peregrine falcon nesting.
By Chris Irwin
From: Silver Spring, Maryland
Apr 10, 2015
The park has temporarily closed the Sign Wall and the Gully the the public effective April 10th, 2015- August 15, 2015 due to nesting Peregrin Falcons.
midatlanticclimbers.org/news/2...
By Conrad S.
Sep 24, 2015
Use the below links to access some videos of bouldering in Harpers Ferry.
vimeo.com/12026104
vimeo.com/19746145
vimeo.com/32724355
vimeo.com/34921932
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXrIp0_eq0Q&feature=plcp"
By Torren
From: Newark, DE
Nov 16, 2015
Parking Beta:

Update 02/20/2016

The former "Cindy Dee" carpool lot is maybe a parking option again. It now looks like the restaurant is closed again (for lease sign in the window). They removed the no parking/towing signs too that were there when the Lowry's restaurant was open a few months ago.

Any locals know more about that lot situation? The bus turnaround is a mess since the two "spots" are currently big dirt/ice piles from plowing. There is basically only one big spot (suv/truck) or two small car spots on the good side of the no parking sign.
By IanHall
Dec 17, 2016
More parking beta

If you are sketched out by parking in town like me, drive past the town on Sandy Hook Rd., past the school bus turnaround and park at the small roadside parking by the NPS trail. Cross the road to the towpath by the river and walk back, with the river to your right.

Stop when you reach the turn at Lock 33, directly beneath the bridge that crosses to Harper's Ferry WV and under Maryland Heights. You can cross up to the road on stone steps and walk the road under the railroad tracks, continuing around to Elk Ridge using the road. Be careful crossing under the tracks because the road narrows to one lane. This method is also good for accessing the Maryland Heights routes.
By johnva
From: ALEXANDRIA
Mar 5, 2017
I heard that parts of Harper's Ferry were closed due to nesting,

What areas are closed and what are open.
By Lex Rodgers
From: Martinsburg, WV
Mar 25, 2017
Parking Update: officers are ticketing anyone that parks in the school bus turnaround even on weekends.
New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.

Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river.
By Monte Perkins
Mar 27, 2017
The Gully, Sign Wall, and ABC ramps are currently closed and are expected to remain closed until August of 2017. You can find further information at the following link:
nps.gov/hafe/learn/management/...

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