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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Róbert Halldórsson, 2008
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Matthew Clausen on Jan 22, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Harmonía, 5.8


Starts at the right-hand side of the column that is right of the obvious, pronounced roof behind the hut. Crosses up towards the left.

A fall before the third bolt is clipped is quite likely to result in an injury. Down low, you'll deck onto jagged rocks (if you fall before the ledge). Higher up, you'll come down hard on the ledge (if you've climbed above it). Hence the PG-13 that I gave it, but I know it's debatable. Check it out and come back with your suggestions on it.

Some folks love this route; some dislike it a lot. Check it out and decide for yourself.


4 bolts to 2-anchor chains with permadraw for lowering

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By Matthew Clausen
Jan 22, 2017

Some people really like this route and might even call it classic. I am in the camp that thought it was a waste of time.

I don't want to 1-star the route at the same time as I add it to MP, however, because there are two camps on the issue. You might think it's awesome if you got on it, but if I add it right away as 1-star it's less likely that any of you will check it out.

I did want to put the PG-13 on there to warn first-visit climbers that this probably isn't the easy warm-up route that it might look like in a photo or on paper. If you want an easy route to get to know the basalt, check out Leið feimna fólksins (5.6), Þetta eru fíl Guðjón (5.8) or Flæ gæ (5.9) first.

It's an interesting route. Thin balance moves with a slight overhang for a portion of it. The exposed start didn't really feel worth it to me, either, and that could pull down my overall rating. The first clip is too low to do anything for you, the second is good, but because of the ledge it only protects you when your waist is within 2 feet of the bolt, and the third is farther away than is should be, in my opinion, due to the possibility of hitting the ledge. What do you think?

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