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Wall of the '90s
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Harlot 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: equipped by Tod Anderson, FFA Mark Anderson, May 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 24, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the twin lines Harlot and Hellcat.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This all-but-forgotten line has wallowed in obscurity for over a decade, guarded by a low, deceptive band of chossy stone that adeptly deters potential suitors. Those who brave the handful of dirty holds at the start will be rewarded with solid, largely excellent stone and fantastic movement. The roof is typical of horizontal climbing in Clear Creek, —sandy in spots but solid where necessary,— leading to a brilliant, multi-hued headwall of burnt orange gneiss, white calcite, and lime-green lichen. Despite appearances, this is not your typical one-move wonder roof-pull. The climbing is surprisingly sustained from the moment you step off the Vixen slab until you clip the anchor, some 30 moves later.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the Vixen anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a slanted fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Follow the sloping ramp leftward, passing a pair of right-facing overlaps on brilliant stone, finally reaching a well-deserved jug a few feet below the anchor.

Location 

Climb out the big roof system on the left, slabby section of the Wall of the '90s, beginning from the Vixen anchor. Once in the white streaks above the biggest roof, move left, avoiding the last roof.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2BA, not including the approach pitch. There’s a slightly spicy stretch from the last bolt to the anchor, but the holds get bigger the higher you go.


Photos of Harlot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sustained, delicate headwall climbing just above t...
Sustained, delicate headwall climbing just above t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paddling over the warmup roof.
Paddling over the warmup roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through the crux, making a big reach out to...
Midway through the crux, making a big reach out to...

Comments on Harlot Add Comment
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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Aug 5, 2015

Fun climbing on the roof, I was able to climb to the lip of the roof (being 5'10'' helps) on my second try but was stumped when I had to move off of the crimps over the lip. Getting the right foot established on the face above the roof is hard, need better beta. Nice job cleaning and sending this thing, Mark!

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