|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Bob Gaines, Tony Sartin, and Tony Grice, November 2006|
|Submitted By:||Bob Gaines on Jan 13, 2007|
|Comments on Harley Queen||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bob Gaines
Jan 13, 2007
|More sustained and better protected than the nearby Harlequin. Maybe three out of five stars.|
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007
|Shweet route, guys! Maybe next time I'll pull that first crux and actually get the tick! TG - didn't you say you guys had plans for subsequent pitches?|
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wickedly sustained, technical route finding, and excellent climbing. Get on this one... but get your game on, as it stays at you from the moment you leave the belay! The route is still cleaning up a bit, and the occasional grainy smear ups the ante a bit... and may have contributed to the "sustained" feeling.
This route is safely bolted (but see notes below on Harlequin's P1), though you'll pause a few times while pulling some "mantle-ish" moves a touch above the bolts.
Not being familiar with Harlequin, this route took me a bit to find. To locate it, head towards to lowest point on the main face of Saddle Rocks. You are probably 75' right of "Right On", and 150-200' left of Walk on the Wild side. You don't need to scramble to the top of any of the huge, obvious ledges to the left of Walk on the Wild Side.
A low angle 4th class section (40') heads to big ledge, and then a long - mostly horizontal - ramp system goes to the right about 80'. This is described above, but was much more traversing than I expected - it is basically horizontal. There is a little tree growing out half way that serves as the best landmark. The ramp ends with two bolts that lead right to the top of a corner system and the anchor. There are some other bolts visible on the ramp system, but you can't reach them from the ramp.
P1 (Harlequin's original pitch) is fine on lead, but pretty damn scary for the second. When they unclip the last bolt, they are facing a 20+' pendulum into a wall. The climbing is only 5.8, but it is very insecure - stick-to-what type of climbing. Do not take an insecure second on this pitch (do the direct start described above instead). My second ended up putting a cordellete through the last bolt hanger, made some moves, and then pulled one side of the cordellete through. Not pretty, but safe for her.
P2 begins directly above the anchor, and then follows a line of bolts up and left and then straight up over the headwall. Be open minded with the route finding... as it is easy to get suckered the wrong way - particularly getting to and past the first bolt. This pitch is harder than it looks and is super fun!
Two raps gain the big ledge below, and then you can scramble back to your packs.
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perhaps being an aging has-been contributed to the feeling this route harder than others have suggested. A great route that is sustained and has No offending easy sections. Three + of five stars.
Edited: Thanks Bob. Teach me to not post from my phone.
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|More sustained than Where Have all the Cowboys Gone, letter grades harder than Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Highway), also think its harder and more than sustained than The Decompensator of Lhasa. As Andy mentions the route finding is technical. I have no choice but to rate it 5.9+.|
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 18, 2011
|This route is 5.11-.......I failed to finish the first pitch;.....got two bolts from top, and was too pooped out......maybe a route for someone younger than I........best I head back over to Santa Cruz for another lap on something I can actually lead......|