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West Face
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411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
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Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
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Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
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Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Harkness variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ PG13

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 550', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Harkness (June '05)
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: chris harkness on Jul 12, 2008

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the huge left-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face, clearly visible from the parking lot. Begin by climbing "Conquistador" to "Abject Cathexis", a crack system on the right side of the massive left facing dihedral.

I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.


right side of west face


Standard aid rack to #4, double set of small nuts, knifeblades, lost arrows, sawed off (or tied off) angles, birdbeaks.

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