||Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Tyler Phillips & Robbie Colbert with help equipping from Christine Balaz|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||any but dead of summer|
|Page Views: ||2,320|
|Submitted By: ||TylerPhillips on Jun 6, 2007|
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This is the start of the route and is on the right...
P1. Classic. super fun, atypical Ibex. Really steep with a cool vein to pinch at the start, a dynamic toss up high, after that rely on slab skills to bring you to the 2 bolt anchor. 5.12-
Even if you just are looking for single pitch sport routes consider hiking here and doing this pitch.
P2. From nice stance climb up the wild wind scoops placing a TCU or two to a really nice ledge and 2 bolt belay, long slings helpful. 5.10a
P3. From luxurious ledge climb up obvious left facing corner placing all those big cams you humped up there, from the top of the crack pass 2 bolts to a dead vertical crux, troubling use of weird holds leaves you feeling "just in there" (hardmen/women need not apply), pass a few more bolts to the top. Slings helpful in the corner/crack, long, 5.12-.
When you get to the top you are on a separate "summit", walk north to locate the tequila and summit register, from here it is possible to rap down the north face or walk back over to the Hardpan Heroics for 3 raps back to the base.
This route lies on the east face, easily spotted from the hardpan. On the topo note the ghetto arrows I drew in, these arrows are a gulley system that will lead you to the base. Walking the Moonbeam is about 100 feet from here too.
QD's, long slings, #1 metolius to #4 camalot (doubles on 3.5 or #4 camalot is nice).
Replacment slings for anchors if rappelling the route might be nice
Pitch 1 anchors are circled and you can't see the ...
Looking down on P3 which has classic mixed climbin...
Starting P2. After you pull this bulge the bolts ...
Feb 14, 2008
Great route. Thanks again to TP for finding a true gem of a climb. He's right about hiking the 10 minutes from the main bouldering area to climb pitch 1 as a great sport pitch. That said, each pitch is unique and really fun. The whole route has bomber bolts where you need them supplemented by gear where you need it. Two new #4 camalots or an old #3.5 and #4 are really nice for p3. We had no problems at all with rope drag linking the crack and entering and climbing the sporty but well protected face above.
Don't forget to sign the summit register. It would be nice to bring some webbing (or chains because this should end up getting loads of traffic) to replace the slings on p1. As of 2-12-08 p2 anchors were fine with beefy cordelette. We had some extra webbing but it ends up you can rap to the ground from the top of pitch 2 so we didn't get back over there. You do need a 70 to rap the route in two long rappels and this is a very easy, simple way down back to your packs.
Can't get the moves out of my brain, and that's always a good sign.