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Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Daniel Woods
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,718
Submitted By: Steve Woods on May 26, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Nice problem.

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  • Description 

    Upstream from Castle Rock, cross the log jam, head up hill then bear right along the cliff band, maybe 50 yards, then head back towards the creek a bit. The problem starts under the egg shaped boulder. Pull over the lip, mantle and top out.


    A couple of pads.

    Photos of Hardboiled Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel Woods on FA of Hardboiled.
    Daniel Woods on FA of Hardboiled.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Misha working the stand start.
    Misha working the stand start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Egg
    The Egg

    Comments on Hardboiled Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Taylor Roy
    From: Midvale, UT
    May 9, 2008

    There is a nice video of Ryan Olson climbing Hardboiled at:
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 9, 2008

    Yes albeit with Olsonian heelhook beta going to the crimp below the lip on the left
    By Luke Childers
    Jun 12, 2009

    Got on this one today. It was a lot of fun. I could not figure the beta to get my body over the lip yet. Seems there may be a few good ways to do this one, but I just could never make total since of the moves to get one's self mounted up on the up part of the wall!!? Just day one though.... hopefully a few more visits and I will send.

    F.Y.I. I a decent place to cross to river that is close to the problem. It's a log jam that was ok to cross and made access much easier. But as usual be careful if you walk the logs as I did... you could take a spill of even get hurt!!!
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 22, 2009

    I heard that the start of this problem has broken? As in... it fell apart?!? I seem to remember the starting holds being quite solid but since I've not been back to confirm this Intel - I was wondering if anyone else has heard about or can confirm the broken starting hold(s) information. Thanks
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Sep 27, 2009

    I wonder which sidepull you are talking about. Most ascents go RH to the lip. I easily pulled off the original LH hold leaving a very solid small LH edge/undercling. I'm surprised to hear that might be flexing and wonder if it is actually the same one.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 2, 2009

    Start matched on the low fin, RH to a pinchy crimp on the obvious little block, punch left to a small incut edge, RH to the obvious edge just over the lip, reach LH to a bad sloping, pockety edge, move right to the horizontal crimps, match, left foot over, reach for the sidepull LH and stand up.

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