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Hard Up 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Conrad S. on Dec 3, 2015

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Description 

This is a less direct start to the classic route at Maryland Heights. It is recommended to link pitch 2 and 3 together.

1. Climb up the wall behind the trees until the rock gets steep and you can step off around the corner to the right. Then continue right until you are directly below the sign and at a set of belay bolts. The Direct start and this route beginning join at this point.
2. Diagonal up and left along the steep ramp. Step out left around an overhanging block passing the main rappel chains. Clipping or placing gear near the rappel chains may create rope drag if linking pitch 2&3 together. Step up on top of the overhanging block to the base of a vertical crack.
3. Climb the vertical crack for about 10 feet then follow the crack left up a steep right facing ramp to a wide platform. Keep an eye out for loose rock on the next easy part. Move up the wide crack on an outside corner for about 6 feet. Move around left onto the wide low angle face and up to the large bolder covered ledge with a tree.
4. Move up behind the tree into a squeeze chimney for about 8 feet, follow the crack system for another 20 feet passing 2 trees and walk into the wide chimney to find the main rappel chains on the left wall in the back of the chimney.

Location 

At the top of the trail scramble up and start below and a little to the left of the left side of the painted sign up that is up on the wall.

Protection 

helmet, Standard trad rack. Bolted belay on pitch 1 and 4. Combine pitch 2 and 3 and belay from the tree.


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