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Hard Up for Cracks 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Rotert, Sandy Fleming, Steve Pachman, 1981
Season: Dry
Page Views: 855
Submitted By: andjoely on Oct 4, 2010

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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Though a little dirty, this amazing overhanging crack system deserves way more traffic and will clean up nicely if more people get on it. It was originally graded 5.10 but it sure felt every bit 5.11a to me.

P1: Climb easy terrain to crack, follow crack to bushy ledge and belay on gear (140 feet)
P2: Continue up cracks to below some blocky roofs, escape on face to the right and continue to the top (70 feet)

Location 

The obvious wide crack system 30 feet right of boulder problem in the sky.

Protection 

Doubles of cams including some bigger stuff to #5 camalot if you want to sew it up.


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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2017

If you're into wide cracks, and IF this thing were cleaned up a lot, this could be a really nice line. The bushes on this thing are probably worse than the dirt factor, but the crack climbing is pretty cool.

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