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Gargoyle Wall
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Hard Times 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 210', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Doug Frericks 1978
Page Views: 1,535
Submitted By: clichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Close to the top of pitch 2

Description 

P1-scramble up about 20 feet to the left cave. Belay on single bolt. It is possible to use a single rack of camalots from #.5-#2 to protect this climbing. To a single bolt belay.
P2-step right and climb up the bridge of the two caves. Climb the face trending up and right following bolts. After the fifth bolt start trending left past two more bolts to a double bolt belay above large granite boulder. This pitch is 100' long with a total of seven bolts.
P3-climb right then up and over bulge. Move left to clip first bolt then climb up and right to second bolt then up to two bolt belay joining the fresh air traverse.

Descent- Join the last pitch of Fresh air traverse and follow climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimney

Location 

Hard Times is a classic face climb straight up the center of Gargoyle wall. This is a serious climb. It is easy to find if you are able to see the two large caves about 20 feet off the ground on the wall. Most people combine pitches one and two. There is quite a distance in between bolts and the belayer should be on guard for falling rocks. It is possible to rappel from the second pitch but will require down climbing if using a 60m rope. The third pitch is seldom done. All the bolts on the route are old 1.5inch drop in anchors. They are the original bolts placed in 1978. I wouldn't want to fall on them. The condition of the anchors is only half of the severity of this climb, the other half is the quality of the rock. So climb softly and prepare accordingly.

Protection 

Quickdraws, optional single set of cams from .5-2 camalots


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By clichtenberger
From: AZ
Dec 8, 2011

The first bolt and the double bolt anchors have been replaced. There are now chains hanging from the anchors. The climbing is harder than 5.7. I sure wouldn't want to fall on this route.
By keithrp
Apr 13, 2016

Update: Climbed the first two pitches April 2016 and all of the bolts were new and totally solid. We combined the first two pitches into one, 9 bolts up to a solid two bolt anchor with chains. Solid climbing, really fun route. We made it down in a single rap with a rope that is just less than 70m. Thanks to the crew who updated the pro on this route! Quality stuff.

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