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Hard Slab climbing
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Mar 13, 2016
I'm wondering where are the best places to climb 5.10 and harder slab that don't have big runouts. I've really enjoyed the bit of slab climbing I've done at the 5.8/9 level and below, but it has generally been 20+ feet between bolts. Are there any areas near Southern California with a good concentration of slab climbs that are bolted more generously? NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
30 points
Mar 13, 2016
Suicide rock Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
136 points
Mar 13, 2016
By modern standards, most folks won't find Suicide to be "generously bolted." There are however plenty of hard slab climbs there. Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Apr 15, 2009
373 points
Mar 13, 2016
Nathanael wrote:
Suicide rock

Looks like some good stuff on Smooth Sole Wall (5.11 and well bolted)
Thanks and keep the suggestions coming!
NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
30 points
Mar 13, 2016
valhalla is great, not too run out and well bolted at cruxes. Sundance to sun dyke as well, not to mention about a billion others. GDavis
Joined Aug 6, 2008
10 points
Mar 13, 2016
NeilB wrote:
Looks like some good stuff on Smooth Sole Wall (5.11 and well bolted) Thanks and keep the suggestions coming!

What specifically are you thinking of that fits the bill? Granted, some routes there are more tightly bolted than others, but nothing that comes close to tightly bolted. Maybe the first half of Down and Out, but the upper half compensates for that. As a general rule, I think you'll need to look long and hard in So Cal to find something. Keep in mind that most of these routes were put up when bolting on lead was the accepted norm. Your skills will grow, but so will your head control. I'd try to find some newer routes in Josh that were put up after rap bolting became acceptable.

Someone mentioned Valhalla. The first pitch is fine but the crux on the second pitch has seen several broken ankles over the years. Caveat emptor.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
5 points
Mar 13, 2016
Cochise in S. Az has some great well bolted multi pitch slabs in the 10-11 range. Would be a great weekend trip from so cal with awesome camping! walmongr
From Gilbert AZ
Joined Aug 8, 2015
45 points
Mar 13, 2016
mountainproject.com/v/edgehogs...


you can find a good amount of hard slab in JTree also

I'm pretty sure you can climb stichter quits and traverse up top and set up top rope on a few 5.10 slabs....not exactly sure what you mean by hard slab, but 5.10 slab is hard for me

mountainproject.com/v/stichter...
Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
453 points
Mar 13, 2016
Jan,
Does Edgehogs protect well?

OP few routes that come to mind:

At Suicide there are two short tens to the left and right of 'Finger-licken good' that are nicely bolted. I don't remember their names.

At J tree -
mountainproject.com/v/where-ha...
---was bolted nicely and the upper crux was a slab.

mountainproject.com/v/bufords-...
--- full disclosure didn't actually complete this climb but can tell you first hand its well bolted

mountainproject.com/v/lubricat...
--- really pretty climb with lots of bolts. Bish ( around the corner) is also good
matt c.
Joined Nov 19, 2009
10 points
Mar 13, 2016
if you go to suicide
Spatula and some harder variations are easily top roped.. great end of day climb or warmup because it's literally right next to the approach trail

mountainproject.com/v/spatula/...

also there is a lot of good slab climbs at Josh that are well protected at the cruxes but not exactly generously bolted.. you should go there before it gets to hot!

also if youre in Tehachapi you should go check out the kern slabs
mountainproject.com/v/kernvill...
andrew thomas
From Orcas island
Joined Jan 15, 2015
10 points
Mar 13, 2016
Fat Dad wrote:
What specifically are you thinking of that fits the bill? Granted, some routes there are more tightly bolted than others, but nothing that comes close to tightly bolted. Maybe the first half of Down and Out, but the upper half compensates for that.

I was thinking of Tango and Toxic Waltz, just based off of route length and number of bolts listed on here...
NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
30 points
Mar 14, 2016
walmongr wrote:
Cochise in S. Az has some great well bolted multi pitch slabs in the 10-11 range. Would be a great weekend trip from so cal with awesome camping!

Looks great. Thanks for the suggestion.
NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
30 points
Mar 14, 2016
Jan Tarculas wrote:
mountainproject.com/v/edgehogs... you can find a good amount of hard slab in JTree also I'm pretty sure you can climb stichter quits and traverse up top and set up top rope on a few 5.10 slabs....not exactly sure what you mean by hard slab, but 5.10 slab is hard for me mountainproject.com/v/stichter...


Yes 5.10 slab is hard for me, too. I've done stichter quits, but wasn't looking for TR setups. Sounds like a good idea. Spent the better part of an afternoon traversing around the base of all those slab routes never getting more than 10 ft off the ground, haha.
NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
30 points
Mar 14, 2016
Mango Lassi Lulz Machine on Lower Tokopah Dome is well bolted and slabby, facey. With some awesome chicken heads.

mountainproject.com/v/mango-la...
SirTobyThe3rd
Joined Mar 12, 2012
1,700 points
Mar 14, 2016
Come on out to Salt Lake man. If hard slab is your thing than Little Cottonwood Canyon is your jam. Definitely worth the drive!

mountainproject.com/v/the-fin/...

mountainproject.com/v/industri...

mountainproject.com/v/lizard-h...

mountainproject.com/v/super-sl...
Bonneville
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Dec 2, 2013
70 points
Mar 14, 2016
Cochise, you will not do any better in your search.Do yourself a favor and hop on Warpaint when you make the trip. Greg Maschi
From Phoenix ,Az
Joined Oct 27, 2010
0 points
Mar 14, 2016
If you want to climb hard slab but not risk runouts, then just throw down a toprope. duh. Pnelson
Joined Jan 1, 2015
40 points
Mar 14, 2016
NeilB wrote:
I was thinking of Tango and Toxic Waltz, just based off of route length and number of bolts listed on here...

OK, those are newer routes. Here's the problem I see though. It sounds like you're just breaking into .10 slab and you've picked out an .11 a and .11c. Not sure how those have much relevance to what you're looking for. Like someone said up thread, just throw a TR on an easy .10 and start there.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
5 points
Mar 14, 2016
Plenty of good Friction/Slabbing in Joshua Tree. Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
1,635 points
Mar 14, 2016
RRG has some great slab. There's a shortie at the military wall and I think a 5.12 slab line somewhere. There's a lot more I just cant think of off the top of my head. Tylerpratt
From Litchfield, Connecticut
Joined Feb 25, 2016
0 points
Mar 14, 2016
Noriega Does Panama in Joshua Tree, Indian Cove Campground. I'm not the most experienced slab climber and this 5.10a proved I wasn't worthy that day. Well protected and steep. I was pulling on every draw and never finished the climb. Tucked my tail and left it for another day. Anyone else ever gone up this slab? It still has some good grit on it. Joe Garibay
From Ventura, Ca
Joined Apr 26, 2014
30 points
Mar 14, 2016
You can make easy slab hard by eliminating holds. When I was first getting better at slab, I would lead or top-rope easier climbs going for the smallest holds I could find to test what I could stick to. Making a game out of it turned it into a fun activity, I still get giddy after making a super thin move.

Mentally, I would remind myself on lead that a particular move would feel secure and easy if I was on top-rope. Likewise, when I was on top-rope I would try to envision myself on lead to force myself to focus on the climbing and sensations, rather than breezing up the climb without really learning anything.

Another thing that really helped out was slack-lining. Learning to stand up from a squatting or sitting position on a slackline is great training for rocking onto a tiny high-step and standing up on it.
Alan Doak
From boulder, co
Joined Oct 1, 2007
70 points
Mar 14, 2016
There are lots of safe modern 5.10 slab climbs in Joshua Tree that are not in any guide book. Contact the mayor Todd Gordon for a day out on some great modern classic routes. I usually climb with Todd a couple times a week and can show you around if he is busy.

Get on them soon, once Todd's new guide book comes out things will get busy!
Rolf R
From BC
Joined Oct 23, 2011
118 points
Mar 15, 2016
matt c. wrote:
Jan, Does Edgehogs protect well? OP few routes that come to mind: At Suicide there are two short tens to the left and right of 'Finger-licken good' that are nicely bolted. I don't remember their names. At J tree - mountainproject.com/v/where-ha... ---was bolted nicely and the upper crux was a slab. mountainproject.com/v/bufords-... --- full disclosure didn't actually complete this climb but can tell you first hand its well bolted mountainproject.com/v/lubricat... --- really pretty climb with lots of bolts. Bish ( around the corner) is also good



at least the pitches I lead or I wouldn't have lead them haha. I suck and scared of slabs...You would have to look at my tick list report on the route of the details I put.
Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
453 points
Mar 15, 2016
Cochise has the purest slab in the country, hands down. Check it out!!! RyanJames
Joined Feb 23, 2010
445 points
Mar 16, 2016
Revelations at Suicide.... the definition of 5.10 slab.

its not to run out, figure it out, have fun.


Cochise is a great 5 day weekend if your from Southern California.

Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
105 points


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