REI Community
Ironing Board Slabs (Upper & Lower Slabs)
Select Route:
Area 51 T 
Bee Line Highway S 
Coal Room T 
Code Rainbow T,S 
Double O Slab T 
Hair of the Dog, The T 
Hard Luck and Bad Times S 
La Facada Norte T 
Ned's Variation to Code Rainbow T 
Otherworld S 
Roadside Traverse T 
Short but Squeezed T 
Short but Sweet T 
Slipstream Dihedral T,S 
Ten Second High S 
Unknown Left (sorry Gillett) T 

Hard Luck and Bad Times 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Allen Simons
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: allen simons on Oct 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
All of the upper slabs uphill from the 0.6 mile ma...

Description 

Grip the right arete and edge up the face past 3 bolts (10+/11a) to a good stance. Start up the upper section, past 3 more bolts, crux at second bolt, (11a), but 10ish thru the entire upper section, finishing with a small roof bulge.
One could conceivably use junky holds on the right and left sides past the edges of the upper section of the rib, but that would be cheating now, wouldn't it? Seriously, I did not use them, but it would make the climb easier. As a side note, one can now climb Otherworld and Hard Luck and Bad Times, fourth class up 70 feet to the upper slab where one can climb Double O Slab or Slipstream Dihedral. From there, you can then top out on the very top of the ridge by climbing any one of multiple lines (many done a long time ago, names unknown). Short But Sweet and Short But Squeezed are two climbs up there that are listed in this guide. So, 4 rock pitches in a row, all raps done with a doubled single rope.

Location 

Park in the paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube on the south side of US Hwy 34. Same as for The Borg and Upper Slabs that contain Double O, Slipstream, Otherworld, etc. Hike west along the road half way back to the turn in the road, and 4th class up 30 feet. Continue up and east to the left side of the lower slabs. Access to the climb is by climbing Otherworld (5.10), or wander up loose 5.2-5.4 rock to the base of the climb. The start is 20 up and right of Otherworld.

Protection 

6 bolts. 2 bolt anchor, single doubled rope rap to top of Otherworld's 2 bolt anchor, single doubled rope rap to base of climbs. Hike 60 yards down central gully to a 2 bolts in rock on east side of gully and rap 35-40 feet to side of US Highway 34.


Photos of Hard Luck and Bad Times Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hard Luck and Bad Times, and the Top of Otherworld...
BETA PHOTO: Hard Luck and Bad Times, and the Top of Otherworld...

Comments on Hard Luck and Bad Times Add Comment
Show which comments
By eric dubya
Jun 22, 2009

Amazing climb Al, and I give ya style points on how ya led it. I did use the holds on the outside edges and had a grand ole time. What do you think it would rate at with the outside holds? Anyhow, it's a great way to get up to Slipstream, another fav.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 23, 2009

There's only a couple 11 lines in the canyon, and this is not one of them. You could make this a hard 8 if you find all the hold'. Sandbagging is fine in my book, but reverse style never heard of it. This is a fun, easy 9.
By allen simons
Jun 23, 2009

Eric ad Scott. This climb, unfortunately is a little contrived in the sense that the holds on the left and right are within reach. I think most people would grab them when convenient. Other than the start, I think there are two cruxes in the 11a range and if one grabs the left or right at those juncturs the rating drops to 5.9 in my opinion. If however you add the contrivance and stay true to the religion, I think is is hard and thin 11a. Al

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About