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Lisa Falls Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drag Queen T 
End Run T 
Flee Flicker S 
Fleeting Glimpse S 
Hard Knocks T,TR 
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) 
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 
Lisa Falls Right T 
Neurotica T 
Rodan S,TR 
Safety Blitz T 
Sweep Left S,TR 
Sweet Spot T,TR 
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 
Where's Winky? T 

Hard Knocks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,362
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: 5) Flee Flicker 6) Fleeting Glimpse 7) Lisa Fal...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This climbs the upper face to the right of the waterfalls. Start from the belay station at the ledge above Flee Flicker or Fleeting Glimpse. This then works around the roof that the anchors are on, and then pops over the small roof, at the base of the brown face with a bolt. Climb to the ledge and clip, make your touchy move and continue to the top.


2 bolts at the top of the climb (Shared with Lisa Fall Tight Pitch 2). 1 draw for the only bolt, and some medium gear. I believe a # .75 camalot worked wonderful just below the face to the bolt. 2 1-rope rappels

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By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route to gain some height. Don't let the runout keep you away from doing this route, it isn't that bad. Personally I don't think the crux is 5.9, it feels much easier and is only one or two smear moves right at the bolt.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not 5.9+ and not really R rated either. The runouts are much easier, and the bolt protects the hard moves well. Cool pitch.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 3, 2005

Did this again today, and would agree that 5.9+ seems a little steep.
By Tim Harper
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

The climbing is relatively easy, but yes, it's difficult to find gear placement. The one bolt on the way up is solid.

Because of the difficulty of placing anchors, a factor-2 fall is quite possible up to that point, and it's a good 50-60% up. Fortunately, the climbing is easy... but be careful out there kids.
By Matt Steubing
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 20, 2014

Here's a GoPro perspective of lead climbing this fun little route. The video starts with me following Neurotica and Hard Knocks starts at 3:47 in the video.

By Chris Hfsda
Sep 2, 2017

Didn't quite fee like a 5.9+, but I would agree with protection rating. A fall past the roof would drop you 20 ft below the belayer. I did, however, get a placement before the smooth brownish area; there is a finger hold flake about 10 feet over the roof. A think .4? BD X4 fit. Its not the best, but it's better than a potential 30ft fall past the belayer if you make it just short of the bolt. Also as a heads-up, as of 9/2/17 there is a bee hive in the rock around the roof - they don't respect your admiration for the great outdoors.

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