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Call to Arms S 
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Dolphin Dancing S 
Happy Nightmare Baby S 
Have a Blast S 
Living in a Vacuum S 
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Sand Dollar S 
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Wild Kippers S 

Happy Nightmare Baby 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Ashley Gann about to hit the crux.

Description 

This is a great name for a pretty darn good route.

To find this route, head up to the mural wall and turn left. Hike for approximately 100 yards until you turn right into a pretty big corner system. On the right wall, there should be two bolted lines (the left one is Tuna! Tuna! Tuna! and the right one is Soluble Fish, both are 11b/c). On the left hand wall will be a bolted route in which a kind of gnarly, soft looking crack will be on the right side. This is HNB.

Cautiously crimp to the first and second bolt. Here you will be faced with a choice. The straight up method is fairly thin but aesthetic. Most people head over to the crack on the right, which also provides enjoyable climbing.

Protection 

7 bolts and anchors.


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By Jon Lachelt
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 5, 2007

Moving right into the crack makes the top section of the route easier... but kind of awkward to step left for clipping.

Climbed there the first week in November. This corner was in shade all day with some sun on this route and to its left. Perfect temperature for t-shirt and light jacket.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Mar 16, 2015

Following the bolt line up the face rather than stepping right into the crack makes this quite a bit harder in my opinion - but really good. Maybe 10+ but three stars for sure. There's a pretty lengthy run out where the routes diverge before you catch another bolt.
By Becky Higbee
From: Denver, CO
Jun 19, 2017

Pretty sure the "aesthetic" route up the face after the third bolt that avoids bailing into the crack on the right had a flake that blew. I was on it yesterday, and there's some newly exposed-looking rock where I wished there was a hold, and definitely isn't a way to get through it at a 10b level.

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