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Happy New Year S 
Paparazzi Pete T,S 

Happy New Year 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken and Karen McMahon '99
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Looking down P4

Description 

Another great multipitch moderate. A bit cleaner than Paparazzi Pete, and I love climbing on the jagged limestone.

P1 & 2 (5.9) 55m: Start on the first two pitches of Paparazzi Pete. Use the anchor directly at the top of the second pitch unless you have gear, in which case you can move of right about 20 feet and reduce a lot of drag on P3.

P3 (5.9) 25m: Traverse right around a slight bulge and then head straight up on thousands of little black spikes. Kind of a weird step right to the anchors.

P4 (5.10a) 25m: Reverse the weird step back left and continue up a slight corner. The anchor sits under the overhanging corner crack.

P5 (5.10b) 20m: Straight up a slightly overhanging corner crack. Fantastic.

Location 

Straight up the middle a la Paparazzi Pete to the big ledge. Then move right to the black face and up to the crack splitting the top.

Protection 

A dozen draws should be more than enough. All anchors are bolted.


Photos of Happy New Year Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spiky goodness.
Spiky goodness.
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma coming up P5
Emma coming up P5
Rock Climbing Photo: The goodness on P5
The goodness on P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1

Comments on Happy New Year Add Comment
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By Jim Althans
Mar 23, 2016

Wanted to share a video we just finished making from this climb. Incredible routes, lots of fun :)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4tkFU78T7U
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would describe the pitches thusly...
P1: Wandery, with a tricky crux out of the cavey section (5.9)
P2: Up to the roof and left, try not to pull on detached block (5.8)
P3: Move right to the spiky rock and straight up, short pitch (5.7)
P4: Long and wandery, with some cool moves broken up by ledges (5.9)
P5: The business. Crack climbing with face holds. Too short! (5.10a)

Saw a bolt above the P5 anchor, though didn't venture up so couldn't speak to what the topout rappel situation would be.