REI Community
Happy Hour Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Left Side T 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Perched-Pillar Pile T 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double TR 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers T,TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 

Happy Hour Crag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,874'
Location: 40.0033, -105.3939 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 67,555
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

52° | 32°

53° | 35°

65° | 38°

46° | 26°

40° | 27°

51° | 32°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Directions to Happy Hour Crag. Park at pullout wi...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Happy Hour Crag is a south-facing wall that keeps the sun for a long time. There are a number of pleasant moderates on this quite high friction rock. Unfortunately, not all of the routes are able to take advantage of that rock quality. Some of the routes are nothing to write home about. That doesn't mean you should write off the rock; there's a number of cool routes, mostly in the middle of the rock. The crag is 70-120 feet high. It can get quite popular after work or on weekends.

    L->R these appear to be:

    A. Left Side, 5, 1p, 50', gear.
    BA. Variation??, 8, 1p, gear.
    B. I, Robot, 7, 1p, gear.
    C. Are We Not Robots, 7, 80' gear.
    D. Are We Not Men, 7, 1p, gear.
    E1. Twofers, 8-, 1p, gear.
    E2. Twofers Bypass, 8-, 1p, gear.
    F? Twofers Gully, 5, 1p, gear.
    G? The Big Spit, 9, 1p, gear.
    H. Rush Hour, 11+, 1p, gear? bolts?
    I. Last Call, 9+, 1p, gear.
    J1. Dementia, 9+/10-, 1p, gear.
    J2. Seeing Double, 10+, 1p, bolts (which may be gone) & gear.
    J3. Cheers aka Thrill Of The Chaise, 10-, 1p, bolts & gear.
    J4. Tipsey, 9, 1p, gear.
    J5. Malign, 7, 1p, gear.
    K. Nightcap, 9-, 1p, gear.
    L. Skid Row, 9+, 1p, gear.
    M. Unknown, ?, 1p, gear & bolts.
    N1. Last Laugh, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
    N2. Grins, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.
    N3 or O. Teetotaler, 11-, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
    P1. Hands Off, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
    P2. The Great Race, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
    P3. Baby Aliens, 12-, 1p, 60', gear.
    P4. Bad Sneakers, 9+, 1p, gear.
    P5. Cruel Shoes, 9, 1p, gear.

    Below & right

    Q. Bent Faith, 8- R, 1p, gear.

    Getting There 

    Pass Cob Rock on the left at 6.6 miles. 100 yards further is a pull-off on the right for Blob Rock. 100 yards further there is a pull-off on the left side of the road (at 6.8 miles). Park, cross the road, and find a steep trail that heads directly up towards the rock. Take the left branch at trail forks; the right branch heads up to Security Risk.

    Hiking time is about 10-15 minutes to the crag.

    An easy path leads up around the left (west) side to the top of the rock; this is also used to descend from routes that don't have bolt anchors.

    Cell Phone Coverager 

    FWIW, Verizon's cell phone covers does reach this crag. The service is a bit iffy.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 4.4 miles from here

    26 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Happy Hour Crag

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Happy Hour Crag:
    Malign   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Grins   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Twofers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Twofers Bypass   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Nightcap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    The Big Spit   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Tipsey   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Last Call   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Dementia   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Last Laugh   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Happy Hour Crag

    Featured Route For Happy Hour Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...

    Dementia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
    Begin beneath the obvious left leaning V- slot roof near the middle of the crag. An awkward mantle brings you into the short but technical crux - the narrow V-slot with a thin fingers crack. Good smears and bomber fingerlocks through the crux. Solid 10a. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Happy Hour Crag Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Happy Hour Crag.  Photo taken from Witches Tower.
    BETA PHOTO: Happy Hour Crag. Photo taken from Witches Tower.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Peace Train.
    The Peace Train.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Interesting lenticulars from the high winds.
    Interesting lenticulars from the high winds.
    Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Nightcap(5.9), with Cob Rock ...
    View from the top of Nightcap(5.9), with Cob Rock ...

    Comments on Happy Hour Crag Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2014
    By jon peckham
    Feb 1, 2002
    This place can get crowded on the weekends in the summer! If you go mid-week, you can usually have your choice of routes. Also, its a good place to go to introduce people to outdoor climbing...
    By Karl Nichols
    Jul 1, 2002
    Jon - you're not kidding. I would avoid this rock at all costs during the weekends. We were short on time and went a couple of Sundays ago in hopes of doing a few quick routes. Major mistake. My girlfriend was climbing Last Laugh and almost had a rope thrown down on her by someone wanting to top-rope a 5.8 close by. We left after one route. This crag has become a mecca for beginner climbers looking for quality top ropes. Unfortunately, not all of them are too climbing savvy yet and are a bit lacking when it comes to basic etiquette (i.e. don't throw ropes on people).When I was at the anchor, there was so much yelling and confusion amongst the beginners that I thought someone was going to fall off. For a better and less crowded area, deal with the heat and try security risk.

    Aside from the crowds, happy hour is a great place for some after work and quick routes. I've had great luck in early season.
    By John Saccardi
    Jul 3, 2002
    I really love Happy Hour as a great place for after work climbing. I'm getting a little concerned, however, about the profusion of trails beneath the crag. Perhaps the Access Fund could continue its fine work in the area by establishing an "official" trail to the crag. In the meantime, I might suggest that folks stick to the slab approach across from the parking area that climbs directly up to the crag. This will minimize erosion on the hillside.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 27, 2003
    In early June, Ron Olsen and I replaced all the rappel/lower hardware in the fixed anchors on this crag with 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links. In the process, we removed all smash (lap) links; the ones on the anchor of Grins were especially bad most likely due to the not-recommended practice of belaying and lowering directly through the anchors.

    This effort was part of the American Safe Climbing Associations (ASCA - Clean Anchors Campaign. They could use your support!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 3, 2003
    Really enjoyed this rock. The guides claim there are some bolts at the top left usually listed as route 3, but I couldn't find any. Also don't get upset with us newbies who are TRing. Those of you aid climb and get there after we are aleady in the process of setting up, just ask if you can climb a route first. People like me realize that you are going to tie up a route a lot less than TRing.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    May 22, 2006
    Anybody know when the 2 big peace symbols were painted on Happy Hour? We drove past there today and I think they are in the Cheers vicinity and are probably 6-8 feet in diameter. Very obvious from the road. Makes you want to wring a few necks.
    By Scott Edlin
    From: boulder, co
    May 23, 2006
    They were not there eight days ago. This is very disappointing news.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    May 24, 2006
    Check out the Peace Train Photo.
    By Jo Holloway
    May 25, 2006
    If these peace-niks on rappel had cajones, they would paint the modified Mercedes symbol on the Pentagon. Instead, the individual(s) have created a trite gesture of vandalism that is utterly devoid of meaning. Good job, kids.
    By Gusana
    May 25, 2006
    WTF--someone has spray painted two large peace signs up high on
    Happy Hour crag (just right of Dementia)! Who thought this was a good idea??
    By Jason Shatek
    May 30, 2006
    The peace signs were there on Saturday, May 20th. They look really bad! Does anyone know how to get the paint off without damaging the rock? Happy Hour is one of my favorite rocks and I hate to see it damaged like that. If someone has experience getting paint off of rock, please let me know. Is paint thinner the best way to get this off?
    By Scott Edlin
    From: boulder, co
    May 31, 2006
    FYI: a thread has been started regarding the defacement at
    By English Bloke
    Jun 6, 2006
    Thanks to whomever took the trouble to clean the spray paint vandalism at Happy Hour on Sunday - I don't know if they succeeded in getting it off with the bucket of soapy water - but perhaps using a solution of ethanol might work.
    By Lizzy Scully
    From: Lyons, Colorado
    Jun 27, 2011
    Does anyone know the name/rating of the steep, bolted line just right of Last Laugh? It feels like 5.12b, but it's not in the book or on MP.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 27, 2011
    To the right of Last Laugh or to the right of Last Call? Do you mean this one ('Rush Hour'):
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun trying the same.
    Shaun trying the same.
    5.11+ if you are tall, harder if you are short.
    By Lizzy Scully
    From: Lyons, Colorado
    Jul 9, 2011
    Nope. It's to the right of that climb, just left of that one-move wonder 11a with a couple bolts. It's on a gently overhanging wall.
    By Lizzy Scully
    From: Lyons, Colorado
    Jul 16, 2011
    I found out the route is 12b, though I don't know the name. It seems an accurate grading. It's a fun route.
    By DempseyMcKinzie
    May 5, 2013
    I found a nice pair of kid's climbing shoes at the base of Happy Hour Crag this afternoon. Let me know if they're yours ...
    By farkas.time
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jun 30, 2013
    Does anybody know what the bolted route is just to the right of Dementia and to the left of Cheers? It follows the left-facing arete/flake making the giant overhanging V-slot finger crack of Dementia. I've topped it a couple times now and it feels much harder than Cheers to me.

    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Jun 30, 2013
    Seein' Double @ Farkas.time
    By GhaMby Eagan
    From: Heaven
    Jun 13, 2014
    My friend and I went climbing at this wall yesterday. We had fun, it was nice that we could set up a top rope on these hard climbs. There were some holds that had chalk marks on them, I think they were marking the holds that were loose. I put more marks on a lot of other holds that I think are going easy to break soon. Watch out, there are lots of holds that are loose at this wall, hopefully other people will mark with chalk all of the loose holds so people don't get hurt.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About