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Happy Hooker 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 674
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Hahaha, oh boy... In my quest to climb all the routes at rumney ive been on more than a few crappy routes... This one is up there... If you like loose rocks, moss, grass, trees, dank wet cracks and a low crux with weird gear that might be high enough off the ground to keep you off the deck and might not... Have at it...

Start as for Friendship Tower but rather than following bolts out right plug in some awkward gear and pull the crux roof straight up and left on to a slab... get some gear and head up the nasty corner on loose rocks and through the jungle of vegitation above... Head out right to a shared anchor with Friendship Tower (5.10b)...

Location 

Start at Friendship Tower and break up and left out a roof and on to a slab...

Protection 

Nuts and small cams...


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 11, 2008

I can't believe you climbed this Lee. Maybe yours was the second ascent.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 11, 2008

Haha, yeah i think it must have been...

It's become like a weird sub-sport for me, seeking out the routes no one does (and sometimes for good reason)... But i had fun doing it in my own strange way...

I admit it's a bit of an odd hobbie...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I climbed this one on top rope after leading Friendship Tower and I don't think this one would be a bomb if it was bolted.
That would be an easy 10a option for people who wants to warm-up while the classics at the Iron Man wall are all busy...
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 16, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Gear List:
Sling and biner
BD.5 Cam
BD #1 Cam
Two extendable draws (2nd Bolt and 1st Cam)
A handful of regular draws for the last couple bolts on the first pitch of crowd pleaser.
By bradley white
From: Bend
Sep 26, 2015

Ted Hammond and I climbed this in 1981 and vowed to not climb it again.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
May 22, 2016

This can be pretty safely top-roped from the Crowd Pleaser P1 anchors. I thought I may have done a first ascent until checking MP and finding out that of course Lee had done it on gear somehow...

I actually liked it. Getting up in the roof and then pulling through it was great, and I found a good amount of clean, solid rock above by staying in the middle of the route, away from that dirty gully. It may have been a bit contrived, as the tougher moves on clean rock can be bypassed with easier moves on disgusting rock AND the whole roof sequence could easily be bypassed with the ramp to the left - but I think the route would be a solid 1-2 star route with some bolts that kept the climber on the good rock instead of R-rated trad gear :)

It may be worth considering, as the additions of a classic 5.6 and 5.7 right next to it will guarantee crowds to this area once the word is out.

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