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Happy Endings 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Stephen Parr, 7/04
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: Nate Ball on May 27, 2013

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A continuation from the anchor above Cunning Linguist and Fillet Show.

The first ascent route takes you straight up the face to a thin crack. Delicate moves on delicate pro take you to a grassy ledge with scrappy rock, and some low-5th up to the ledge.

The "better" variation starts just left of the anchor. Protect carefully here - some of the rock looks suspect. Pull through up to the slopey ledge and a rather intimidating position. Take a deep breath, then grope for holds as you move out right, get some solid pro, and pull up to big holds. The rock here is super sharp and fragile, but the going is easy. Scramble up to the ledge.

This anchor is also for BA Insanity. A single 60m will easily get you down.


Start from the Fillet Show ledge


Gear to 1.5"
Titanium anchors (2016)

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