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2Trad4U T,S 
Day of Atonement T 
Freak Freely T 
Happy Crack T 
Hollow Victory T 
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 
Lonesome Winner, The T 
Naughty and Nice T 
Oracle T 
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Urbaby's Daddy T 
Wushu Roof T 

Happy Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke, Kyle Silverman 8/18/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Starts at the crack on the right side of the photo...

Description 

This 5 star joy to climb classic is like a well-put together staircase. A bit of a squeeze job on the natural line @ just 3 feet to the right of 2trad4U. Using face holds interspersed with the crack, climb the obvious and easy shallow dihedral straight up to the top. Each step seems to be where you want it with the left hand (roof) variation having an interesting undercling and face moves. The easier, right hand variation heads to the right @ 5 feet below the crux of the left hand variation about 1/2 way up the route. Just dance to the right and up small ledges before rejoining the route. Clip the black sling on the medium fir growing on the route, then finish straight up the remining 20 feet to the rappel point which is off of the large fir tree on the very top.

Protection 

Medium and large wired stoppers with a few cams to 1-1/2". include a green alien or yellow TCU as well. A set of Hybrid Aliens, although not necessary, will place very well.


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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

So, did this yesterday (in tennis shoes), and it felt around 5.7, easily protected. If you long sling the gear, there is very little rope drag.
By Ryan Orr
From: Portland, OR
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not sure why the PRC guidebook calls this a 5-star climb. Nothing about it seemed
Classic to me. In fact, I thought I was on a different route the entire time until confirming I was in the right spot from the beta pictures on here. I'd skip this one.

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