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Happiness Is a Warm Drill 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jared Incillo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,048
Submitted By: JIncillo on May 22, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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crux from bolt 1 to 3

Description 

Tallest route at the crag. Starts at the bottom of the massive corner and works it's way up into it. Follow the corner through some easier terrain and break out left onto the face for the finish.

Location 

The tallest part of the quarry walls in the largest most obvious corner. Left of Desparete and Right of the people's rock wall.

Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Happiness Is a Warm Drill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on the FFA
BETA PHOTO: Myself on the FFA
Rock Climbing Photo: on the FFA
on the FFA
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Happiness
BETA PHOTO: The start of Happiness
Rock Climbing Photo: Happiness is a warm drill
BETA PHOTO: Happiness is a warm drill

Comments on Happiness Is a Warm Drill Add Comment
Show which comments
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
May 23, 2016

YES!!! Awesome work Jared! So glad you made this a reality!
By Echoinfi
Jun 11, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a awesome climb, very different in the fact that its like 10 bolts long. It has a low crux and then another one at the end. It definitely follows the technical west rock diehedral theme of the zone. You have to think. With some more traffic it should clean up. Great work on this one Jared. I cleaned it up a bit more and removed the poison ivy from the base. I also fixed the anchor by adding a quick link so you can lower off.
By thebmags
Oct 17, 2016

Nice eye ! Long, knot the end of your rope
By Echoinfi
Nov 5, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I would just clean it.
By guy bon
Nov 5, 2016

Call Gerg @ Trundlers Inc. Master exfoliator with years of experience behind the pry-bar. takes care of excessive floral growth as well. A true professional.
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Nov 7, 2016

"20 feet tall 10 feet wide and several feet thick."
Sounds like half the climbs in this area to me.

Very few West Rock climbs are without death blocks, it is not a typical sport crag.
By Wes Schultz
From: Seymour, ct
Dec 1, 2016

"Very few West Rock climbs are without death blocks, it is not a typical sport crag"

have to disagree with you for the ballfield and quarry sport climbs. They are very well cleaned, fully developed. The rock is exfoliating, and as such I have pulled off a few fist to helmet sized rocks in my time there, but as far as ct trap rock goes, those sport areas are choice
By DontHassleMeImLocal
Dec 1, 2016

Considering the fact that “T Roper” was part of the crew of individuals that helped develop the area, id say he knows a thing or two about the crag. I can name 5 climbs in the quarry area alone, excluding Happiness, that have death or at least dangerous blocks that are ready to come out.

“but as far as ct trap rock goes, those sport areas are choice”
There are far better sport climbing areas in CT (including on traprock) with much higher quality, and less fragile stone. That being said, West Rock is still a great little crag. Has a great concentration of hard climbs, including one of CTs hardest (and raddest).

And remember kids….knock first and always pull down, not out.

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