|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Johnny K. on Feb 25, 2011|
|Comments on Hanzo,Sword of justice||Add Comment|
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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny K, I did this route and it was VERY dirty. Like no one had climbed it before dirty. I cleaned it up a bit, including tearing off a very loose flake near the bottom that could have hurt someone.. My partner had to wear a helmet when I climbed it due to the amount of crap falling off of the climb. I thought for sure I did the FA on it, and it isn't in the guide book. But it looks like you beat me to it. So I would say you have the FA on it.
I thought the offwidth portion at the bottom was pretty tough, but I'm not an "off width" kind of guy. Nice job!
That being said, the gear anchor at the top is difficult to place. I had to clean a lot of dirt out of a crack to place 3 marginal cams, so keep this in mind if you decide to climb it. If someone was motivated, the climb could continue up another 15 feet on slab but would require some bolting.