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Evil Pillar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hanzo,Sword of justice  T 
Mental Games Chimney S 
Necessary Evil S 
Route of All Evil S 

Hanzo,Sword of justice  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Year round
Page Views: 734
Submitted By: Johnny K. on Feb 25, 2011

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Hanzo,Sword of justice

Description 

Easy flaring fist crack up to easy ow.Rappel off bolted anchors for Mental Games Or walk off to the left.

Depending on the season/weather,the whole corner area around mental games is quite dirty from run off.

Location 

About 20 yards left from Necessary Evil cave entrance on the Evil Pillar and right next to Mental Games Chimney.

Protection 

Standard traditional rack
Camalots .75-5 (Gear anchor)


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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Johnny K, I did this route and it was VERY dirty. Like no one had climbed it before dirty. I cleaned it up a bit, including tearing off a very loose flake near the bottom that could have hurt someone.. My partner had to wear a helmet when I climbed it due to the amount of crap falling off of the climb. I thought for sure I did the FA on it, and it isn't in the guide book. But it looks like you beat me to it. So I would say you have the FA on it.

I thought the offwidth portion at the bottom was pretty tough, but I'm not an "off width" kind of guy. Nice job!

That being said, the gear anchor at the top is difficult to place. I had to clean a lot of dirt out of a crack to place 3 marginal cams, so keep this in mind if you decide to climb it. If someone was motivated, the climb could continue up another 15 feet on slab but would require some bolting.