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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Echo Summit
> Echo Lakes
> Old Peculiar
Hanus Anus
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Old Peculiar
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Freon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hanus Anus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knee On T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Offwidth Their Heads T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Peculiar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sun and Steel T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Yodeler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Dave and Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace |
| Page Views: | 765 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Oct 17, 2003 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The left-most established climb on Old Peculiar, Hanus Anus begins with a very overhung crack in a dihedral. After the two bolts protecting the crack head right to get over the roof, then up a layback flake which ends yielding some stemming moves before you reach the top. Tape up for the bottom crack!
Protection
Two bolts low and one high protect Hanus Anus. You'll probably also need a nut or two around .5" to protect the crack above the roof and either slings or medium-sized cams will make a suitable anchor.
If you wanted to, you could lead Hanus Anus purely trad. #2 to #3 cams would fit nicely in the bottom crack.
For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish. Heinous Anus is on the right side of the ledge.
If you wanted to, you could lead Hanus Anus purely trad. #2 to #3 cams would fit nicely in the bottom crack.
For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish. Heinous Anus is on the right side of the ledge.
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