REI Community
Old Peculiar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Freon T 
Hanus Anus T,TR 
Knee On T,TR 
Offwidth Their Heads T,TR 
Old Peculiar T,TR 
Sayonara T 
Sun and Steel T,S,TR 
Yodeler T 

Hanus Anus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave and Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Hanus Anus from the left side of 'the crack'

Description 

The left-most established climb on Old Peculiar, Hanus Anus begins with a very overhung crack in a dihedral. After the two bolts protecting the crack head right to get over the roof, then up a layback flake which ends yielding some stemming moves before you reach the top. Tape up for the bottom crack!

Protection 

Two bolts low and one high protect Hanus Anus. You'll probably also need a nut or two around .5" to protect the crack above the roof and either slings or medium-sized cams will make a suitable anchor.

If you wanted to, you could lead Hanus Anus purely trad. #2 to #3 cams would fit nicely in the bottom crack.

For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish. Heinous Anus is on the right side of the ledge.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Getting out of the anus.  Don't give me a hard tim...
Getting out of the anus. Don't give me a hard tim...

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